Union  Pacific  Railroad 


ROBERT  ERNEST  COWAN 


Nelsons'  J^ictorial    GniDE-BooKS. 


THE    UNION    PACIFIC    RAILROAD 

A  TRIP  ACROSS  THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  CONTINENT  FROM  OMAHA  TO  OGDEN. 


Westward  the  course  of  Empire  takes  its  way. 

Bishop  Berkeley. 


T.  NELSON  AND  SONS,  42  BLEECKER  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


MIN, 

]\52 


CONTENTS. 


General  Information,     .. 

Stations  on  the  Union  Pacific  Kailroad, 

Stations  on  the  Central  Pacific  Eailroad, 

Stations  on  the  Western  Division  (formerly  Western 

Pacific  Eailroad), 
The  Union  Pacific  Railroad,   . . 


EaUway  Works  at  Omaha, 

The  Prairies :  Their  General  Cliaracter, 
Omaha  to  Cheyenne, 
Cheyenne  to  Wash-a-kie, 
The  Eocky  Mountains  to  Ogden, 
A  Visit  to  Salt  Lake  City, 


259543 


(82) 


***  A  companion  Guide,  under  the  title  of  "Nelsons'  Pictorial  Guide-Book  to  the 
Cexteal  Pacific  Railroad,"  is  also  published  in  this  Series;  and  a  "Pictorial 
Guide-Booic  to  the  Yosemitk  Valley."  With  Illustrations  from  Photographs  and 
other  sources. 


UNIONanoCeNTRAL 

PacificRailroaoLine 


THE    UNION    PACIFIC    RAILROAD. 


I.— GENERAL  INFOKMATION. 

The  Union  Pacific  Railroad  begins  at  Omaha.  IIoiu  to 
reach  Omaha  is  therefore  the  toiu-ist's  first  difficulty.  But 
as  at  this  important  point  numerous  railroads  converge, 
he  need  but  consult  their  Time-tables  to  fix  upon  the 
route  most  agreeable  or  convenient  to  him.  One  fact, 
however,  he  must  bear  in  mind — namely,  that  from  Bos- 
ton or  New  Ywk  he  must  make  his  way  to  Council 
Bluffs. 

Now,  Council  Bluffs  is  the  principal  city  of  Pottawat- 
tomie  County,  Iowa,  and  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Missouri  River,  exactly  opposite  Omaha.  It  derives  its 
name  from  the  bold  heights  at  whose  base  it  is  situated  ; 
is  about  three  miles  east  of  the  great  Missouri,  and  four 
(82) 


miles  from  Omaha;  and  contains  aboutl3,500  inhabitants. 
It  is  described  as  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Western  Iowa. 
But  American  notions  of  antiquity  do  not  correspond  w-ith 
European,  and  the  Englishman  will  be  astonished  to  find 
that  it  does  not  date  from  a  more  remote  epoch  than 
18-45  or  1846,  when  it  was  a  Mormon  settlement,  and 
known  as  Kanesville.  In  1853  it  obtained  a  charter  and 
the  prouder  designation  of  the  "City  of  Council  Bluflfs," 
the  latter  referring  to  a  council  held  here  by  the  explorers 
Lewis  and  Clark,  with  the  Indians,  in  1804. 

Council  Bluffs  will  soon  be  connected  with  Omaha  by  a 
bridge,  the  work  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  Communi- 
cation was  formerly  maintained  by  steam  ferry  boats. 

The  town  includes  within  her  limits  twenty-four  square 
miles— extending  north  and  south  four  miles,  east  and 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


west  six  miles.  It  boasts  of  four  newspapers  (1871)— the 
Bugle,  the  Xonpareil,  the  Council  Bluffs  Times,  and  the 
German  Post;  of  numerous  schools;  of  fifteen  hotels; 
and  of  a  court-house,  built  at  an  expense  of  $75,000,  and 
described  as  a  very  fine  structure.  The  churches  are 
solid  and  spacious,  but  not  architecturally  beautiful.  A 
"  mammoth  hotel "  was  "  building  "  in  September  1870; 
probably  by  this  time  it  is  "  built." 

The  "change"  of  passengers  and  baggage  which  takes 
place  at  Council  Bluffs,  and  must  continue  to  take  place 
untn  the  bridge  is  erected,  is  one  of  the  inconveniences 
a  traveller  grumbles  at,  but  endures.  The  change,  how- 
ever, being  safely  accomplished,  and  the  ferry  crossed, 
the  traveller  finds  himself  in  the  flourishing  city  of 
Ojiaha,  and,  within  about  forty  yards  from  the  quay,  at 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad. 


STATIONS   ON    THE    UNION    PACIFIC    RAILROAD. 

Lleration  Distance  Distance 

abore         from  Kame  of  Station.                          from  San 

Sea-leTel.    Omaha.  Francisco. 

966    ..  ..     Omaha  1914 

1142     ..        4     ..     Summit  Siding 1910 

976     . .       10     . .     Gillmore  1904 

(82; 


EleTation 

above 
Sealerel. 

Distance 
from 
Omaha. 

972   . 

15 

1150   . 

29 

1120   . 

35 

1176  . 

47 

1220  . 

54 

1259  . 

62 

1335  . 

76  . 

84 

1432  . 

92 

1470  . 

99 

1534  . 

109 

1610  . 

121 

1686  . 

132 

1760  . 

142 

1850  . 

154 

1907  . 

162 

1974  . 

172 

2046  . 

183 

2106  . 

191 

2170  . 

201 

2241  . 

212 

2305  . 

221 

2370  . 

230 

2440  . 

240 

2511  . 

250 

2570  . 

260 

Distance 

Name  of  Station.  from  San 

Francisco. 

Papillion 1898 

Elkhom 1885 

Valley 1879 

Fremont  1867 

Ketchum 1860 

IsoTth  Bend 1852 

Schuyler 1838 

Cooper 1S30 

Columbus 1822 

Jackson 1815 

Silver  Creek  Station ISOo 

Clark's  Station 1793 

Lone  Tree  Station 1782 

Chapman's  Station 1772 

Grand  Island 17C0 

Pawnee  1752 

Wood  Eiver  Station 1742 

Gibbon .- 1731 

Kearney 1723 

Stevenson 1713 

Elm  Creek 1702 

Overton 1693 

Plum  Creek 1684 

Cayote  1674 

willow  Island 1CC4 

Warren 1654 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


2G8 
277 
291 
299 
307 
322 
332 
341 
351 
361 
377 
387 
397 
408 
414 
423 
433 
442 
451 
463 
473 
484 
496 
508 
516 


Distance 

Name  of  Station.  from  San 

f  runcisco. 

Brady  Island 1646 

Macpherson's  Station 1637 

North  Platte  City 1623 

Nichol's  Station 1615 

O'Pallon's 1607 

Alkali 1593 

Koscoe ...  15S2 

Ogalalla 1573 

Brule  1563 

Big  Springs  1553 

Julesburg ....  tfS"  To  Denver 1537 

Chappel 1527 

Lodge  Pole 1517 

Colton 1506 

Sidney  (Nebraska  Territory) 1500 

Brownson 1491 

Potter 1481 

Bennett 1472 

Antelope 1463 

Bushnell  (Wyoming  Territory)  ....  1451 

Pine  Bluffs 1441 

Egbert  1430 

HUlsdale  1418 

Archer  1406 

Cheyenne  (Junction  of  Denver  Paci- 
fic Railroad) 1398 


Elevation 

Distan 

above 

from 

Sea-level, 

Omah 

6325  . . 

523 

6724  .. 

532 

7298  .. 

536 

7780  .. 

542 

8242  . . 

549 

7857  . . 

558 

7336  . . 

564 

7163,  .. 

570 

7123.  .. 

573 

581 

7068  . . 

587 

7044  . . 

602 

7169  .. 

606 

6810  . . 

614 

6690  . . 

623 

7680  .. 

638 

6550  .. 

645 

6750  . . 

656 

6898  .. 

662 

7950  .. 

669 

6875  .. 

675 

6751  . . 

680 

688 

6840  . . 

696 

6560  .. 

704 

6732  .. 

709 

J'istancc 

Name  of  Station.  from  San 

Francisco. 

Hazard 1391 

Otto 1382 

Granite  Canyon  1378 

Buf  ord 1372 

Sherman,  (highest  point) 1365 

Harney  3356 

Bed  Buttes 1350 

Fort  Saunders  Station V.'A-i 

Laramie  City 1341 

Howell's 1333 

Wyoming 1327 

Cooper's  Lake  Station  1312 

Look  Out  1308 

Miser 1300 

Bock  Creek 1291 

Como 1276 

Medicine  Bow  Station 1269 

Carbon 1258 

Simpson 1252 

Percy 1245 

Dana  1239 

St.  Mary's 1234 

Walcott's 1226 

Fort  Fred.  Steele 1218 

Grenville 1210 

Rawlins  Springs 1205 


(82) 


10 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


1  Distance 

from 

,  Omaha. 

.  723 

.  737 

.  752 

.  761 

.  775 

.  785 

.  794 

.  798 

.  805 

.  817 

.  828 

.  831 

.  845 

.  858 

.  876 
.,  887 

.  904 

.  913 

.  928 

.  937 

.  955 

.  957 

.  966 

.  975 

.  991 

.  1007 
(82) 


Distance 

Name  of  Station  from  San 

Francisco. 

Separation  Station 1191 

Creston 1177 

Wash-a-Kie 1162 

Ked  Desert 1153 

Table  Rock  1139 

Bitter  Creek  Station 1129 

Black  Buttes  1120 

HaUville 3116 

Point  of  Rocks 1109 

Salt  WeUs  Station 1097 

Van  Dykes 1086 

Rock  Springs 1083 

Green  River  Station 1069 

Bryan 1056 

Granger's  Station  (Utah  Territory)..  1038 

Church  Buttes 1027 

Carter's  Station 1010 

Fort  Bridger  Station 1001 

Piedmont 9S6 

Aspen 977 

Evanston 959 

Alma 957 

Wahsatch 948 

Castle  Rock  Station 939 

Echo  City 923 

Weber  Station 907 


Elevation    Distance  Distance 

above  from  Kame  of  Station.  from  San 

Sea-level.      Omaha.  Francisco. 

4870     ..1019     ..     Devil'sGate 895 

4560     . .   1024     . .     Uintah 890 

4340     ..   1032     ..     Ogden,    Terminus   of    the    Union 

Pacific  Railroad 882 

Utah  Central  Railroad,  36  miles  long,  to  Salt  Lake  City. 


4301 
4251 
4229 
4379 
4905 
4588 
4223 
4226 
4222 
4630 
4019 
4346 
4494 
4812 
4999 


CENTRAL    PACIFIC    RAILROAD. 

From  Ogdcn  to  Sacramento. 

SALT   LAKE   DIVISION. 

1032     ..     Ogden SS2 

1041     . .     Bonneville 873 

1055     . .     Corinne 859 

1073     ..     Blue  Creek 841 

1084     . .     Promontory  Point 830 

1092     ..     Rozel 822 

1100     ..     Lake 814 

1105     ..     Monument 809 

1123     . .     Kelton,  or  India  Creek 791 

1137     ..     Matlin 777 

1153     ..     Terrace 761 

1164     ..     Bovine 750 

1177     ..     Lucin 737 

1188     . .     Tecoma 726 

1197     ..     Montello 717 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


11 


Elevatioi 

Distance 

above 

from 

Sea-level 

Omaha. 

5555 

.   1206   . 

5970  . 

.   1214   . 

61S3  . 

.  1224  . . 

G153  . 

.  1230  . 

6004  . 

.  1236  . . 

6118  . 

.  1242  . . 

5978  . 

.  1244  . 

5628  . 

.  1250  . 

5483  . 

.  1258  . 

5340  . 

.  1271  . . 

5227  . 

.  1284  . . 

5204  . 

.  1287  . . 

5135  . 

.  1297  . . 

5065  . 

.  1307  . . 

5065  . 

.  1319  . 

4903  . 

.  1330  . 

4840  . 

.  1339  . . 

4766  . 

.  1350  . . 

4690  . 

.  1358  . 

4636  . 

.  1368  . 

4548  . 

.  1379  . . 

4508  . 

.  1391  . . 

4505  . 

.  1403  . . 

4421  . 

.  1410  .. 

Distance 

Name  of  Station.  from  San 

Francisco. 

Loray 708 

Toano 700 

HUMBOLDT  DIVISION. 

Pequop 690 

Otego 684 

Independence 678 

Moor's 672 

Cedar 670 

WeUs 664 

Tulasco 656 

Deeth 643 

Halleck 630 

Peko 627 

Osino 617 

Elko 607 

Moleen 595 

Carlin 584 

Palisade 575 

Cluro  564 

Be-o-wa-we .556 

Shoshone 546 

Argenta 535 

Battle  Mountain 523 

Side  Track 51] 

Stone  House 504 


Elevatior 

above 
Sea-level 

Distance 

from 
Omaha. 

4375   . 

.  1422 

43S7  . 

.  1434 

4315  . 

.  1445 

4331  . 

.  1451 

4322  . 

.  1461 

4327  . 

.  1472 

4228  . 

.  1479  . 

4233  . 

.  1492 

4256  . 

.  1504 

4182  . 

.  1.514 

4008  . 

.  1521 

3977  . 

.  1525 

3917  . 

.  1533  . 

3925  . 

.  1541 

3893  . 

.  1553 

4199  . 

.  1560 

4070  . 

.  1568  . 

4017  . 

.  1578 

4155  . 

.  1585  . 

4177  . 

.  1587  . 

42G3  . 

.  1602  . 

4403  . 

.  1614  . 

4507  . 

.  1022  . 

4927   . 

.  1632  . 

Distance 

Name  of  Station.  from  San 

Fraocisco. 

Iron  Point 492 

Golconda 480 

Tule 468 

Winneraucca 463 

TUUCKEE   DIVISION. 

Rose  Creek 453 

Raspberry  Creek 442 

Mill  Creek 435 

Humboldt 422 

Rye  Patch 410 

Oreana 400 

Humboldt  Bridge  Station 393 

Lovelock's 3S9 

Granite  Point 381 

Brown's 373 

White  Plains 3G1 

Mirage 354 

Hot  Springs 346 

Desert 336 

Two  Mile  Station 329 

Wadsworth 327 

Clark's 312 

Camp  XXXVII 300 

Reno 292 

Verdi 2S2 


(82) 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Eleration 

above 
Eea  level 

Distance 

from 
Omaha. 

5533  . 

.  1648 

5845  . 

.  1656 

6780  . 

.  1668 

7017  . 

.  1671 

6519  . 

.  1677 

6191  . 

.  1681 

5939  . 

.  1684 

5229  . 

.  1692 

4077  . 

.  1698 

4410  . 

.  1700 

4154  . 

.  1702 

3612  . 

.  1707 

3403  . 

.  1709 

3206  . 

.  1712 

2691  . 

.  1717 

2421  . 

.  1722 

2880  . 

.  1727 

1759  . 

.  1733 

1362  . 

.  1740 

969  . 

.  1745 

403  . 

.  1750 

248  . 

.  1754 

103  . 

.  1758 

Distance 

Name  of  Station.  fi  om  San 

Francisco. 

,     Boca 266 

.     Truckee 258 

SACRAMENTO   DITISIOX. 

.     Strong's  Canyon 246 

.     Summit  Station 243 

.     Cascade 237 

.     Tamarack 233 

.     Cisco 230 

.     Emigrant  Gap 222 

.     Blue  Canyon 216 

China  Ranch 214 

.     ShadyRun 212 

.     Alta 207 

.     Dutch  Flat 205 

.     Gold  Run 202 

.     C.H.Mills 197 

.     Colfax 192 

.     N.  E.  Mills  187 

.     CUpperGap 181 

.     Auburn 174 

.     Newcastle 109 

.     Pino 164 

.     Rocklin. 100 

.     Junction  ....  US'  Sacramento   and 

Oregon  Railroad 156 


Elevation 

above 
Sea-level. 

Distance 

from 
Omaha, 

154   .. 

1761 

55   .. 

1768 

52  .. 

1772 

30  .. 

1775 

Distance 

Kame  of  Station.  fr  m  San 

Francisco. 

Antelope 153 

Arcade 146 

A.  R.  Bridge 142 

Sacramento 139 


WESTERN    DIVISION    (FORMERLY   WESTERN    PACIFIC 
RAILROAD). 

From  Sacramento  to  Oakland  (for  San  Francisco,  3  viiles). 

Brighton 134 

Florin 130 

Elk  Grove 123 

Cosumnes 120 

Gait 112 

Mokelume 106 

Stockton 92 

Lathrop 83 

San  Joaquin  Bridge 80 

Banta's 76 

EUis 71 

Medway 64 

Altamont 57 

Livermore 49 

Pleasanton 42 

Xiles  Junction 30 


55  . 

1780  . 

32  . 

1784  . 

53  . 

1791  . 

49  . 

1794  . 

49  . 

1802  . 

55  . 

1808  . 

23  . 

1822  . 

25  . 

1831  . 

36  . 

1834  . 

30  . 

1838  . 

76  . 

1843  . 

357  . 

1848 

740  . 

1855  . 

485  . 

1863 

351  . 

1869  . 

86  . 

1880 

(82) 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


13 


Elcviitioii 

al.ove 
Sea-level 

Distniico 

from 
Omaha. 

71    . 

.     18S6     . . 

82     . 

.     1895     . . 

48     . 

.     1897     . . 

18     . 

.     1901     . . 

12     . 

.     1908     . . 

11     . 

.     1911     .. 

Distance 

Name  of  Station.  from  S;ui 

Francisco. 

Decota 24 

Lorenozo 15 

San  Leandro 13 

Simpson's 9 

Brooklyn   2 

Oakland. — San  Francisco. 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 

The  Act  authorizing  the  construction  of  this  monster 
traject  across  the  continent  was  passed  in  1862,  and  sanc- 
tioned by  President  Lincoln  on  the  1st  day  of  July  of 
that  year.  The  Government  granted  to  the  companies 
that  undertook  its  construction  a  section  of  land  equalling 
12,800  acres  for  each  mile  of  the  railroad;  or,  taking  the 
total  length  of  the  line  as  1775  miles  from  Omaha  to 
Sacramento,  a  total  of  22,720,000  acres.  The  Trans-Con- 
tinental Railroad,  as  it  may  more  appropriately  be  called, 
has  been  laid  down  by  two  companies  ;  the  Union  Pacific, 
which  goes  as  far  as  Ogden,  and  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
road of  California,  which  effects  a  junction  with  the  former 
at  Ogden,  and  now  completes  the  through  communication 
to  San  Francisco. 
(82} 


In  addition  to  the  grant  of  lands  and  right  of  way. 
Government  agreed  to  issue  its  thirty  year  six  per  cent, 
bonds  in  aid  of  the  work,  on  the  following  scale : — For 
the  Plains  portion  of  the  road,  iiiil6,000  per  mile;  for  the 
next  most  difficult  portion,  .$32,000  per  mile ;  for  the 
mountains,  .$48,000  per  mile. 

The  Union  Pacific  Hailroad  Comi^any  laid  down  526 
miles  of  rail,  and  received  .$16,000  per  mile;  408  miles 
at  .$32, 000  per  mile  ;  150  miles  at  .$48,000  per  mile,— 
making  a  total  of  .$28,456,000. 

The  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company  laid  down  12 
miles  at  §16,000  per  mile  ;  522  miles  at  $32,000  per 
mile;  and  156  miles  at  $48,000  per  mile,— making  a 
total  of  $24,386,000.  Total  amount  of  subsidies  for 
both  roads,  $52,840,000. 

The  following  details,  which  are  necessarily  on  official 
authority,  may  be  of  interest  to  the  reader  : — 

In  the  construction  of  the  whole  line  were  used 
about  300,000  tons  of  iron  rails;  1,700,000  fish-plates; 
6,800,000  iron  bolts ;  6,126,376  cross-ties  ;  and  23,505,500 
spokes. 

Estimating  the  cost  of  the  road  complete  by  that  of 
other  first-class  (American)  railroads— viz.,  $105,000  per 


14 


THE  UXIOK  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


mile— we  arrive  at  a  total  of  $181,650,000  for  the  whole 
work. 

The  railroad  was  begun  on  the  5th  of  November  1865, 
and  completed  to  its  junction-point  with  the  Central 
Pacific  on  May  30,  18G9.  The  rolling  stock  now  em- 
ployed upon  it  is  very  large,  as  may  be  seen  from  the 
following  enumeration,  which,  however,  from  the  rapid 
increase  constantly  taking  place,  will  soon  be  out  of 
date : — 


Section  Cars 109 

Iron  Cars 50 

Coal  Cars 231 

Bridge  Cars 12 

Gravel  Cars 20 

Derrick  and  Wrecking 

Cars 3 

Rubble  Cars 13 

Powder  Cars 20 

Water  Tank  Cars 4 

Cook  Car 1 

Pay  Cars 2 

Oflicer's  Cars 2 

President's  Car 1 


We  need  hardly  say  that  not  only  the  Sleeping  Cars, 

(82} 


319 

Passenger  Cars 

Emigrant    and    Second 

163 

PuUmann  Sleeping  Cars 

Silver   Palace   Sleeping 

Cars 

22 

90 

Mail  and  Express  Cars . . 

45 

88 

Baggage  Cars 

Box  Cars 

Flat  Cars 

34 

25G6 

27G5 

421 

Dump  Cars 

142 

but  all  the  rolling  stock,  is  equal  in  finish  and  appoint- 
ments to  that  of  the  best  railways  in  any  part  of  the 
world. 

RAILWAY  WORKS  AT  OMAUA. 

These  include  a  series  of  machine  shops,  on  the  low 
land  fronting  the  Alissouri.  They  are  built  of  brick,  and 
cover  30  acres  of  ground.  The  round-house  contains 
twenty  stalls ;  the  principal  machine  shop  is  60  feet  by 
120  feet  in  size,  and  contains  all  the  machinery  necessary 
for  constructing  or  repairing  cars  and  locomotives  ;  the 
blacksmith  shop  measures  80  by  200  feet ;  the  store  room, 
76  by  80  feet ;  the  car  shop,  75  feet  by  150,  with  a  wing,  40 
by  100  feet ;  the  paint  shop,  30  by  121  feet.  The  engine 
which  sets  in  motion  the  various  machines  found  in  these 
departments  is  of  70  horse-power ;  and  the  number  of 
men  regularly  employed  in  the  maintenance  of  the  line  is 
about  4000. 

THE  PRAIRIES  :    THEIR  GENERAL  CHARACTER. 

A  few  words  may  here  be  said  in  reference  to  the  great 
western  prairies,  which  are  traversed  by  the  Pacific  Kail- 
road,  and  which  form  so  striking  a  feature  of  the  Missouri- 
Mississippi  basin. 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


15 


Southward,  an  open  aud  sandy  waste,  about  450  miles 
in  width,  skirts  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  as  far 
south  as  tlie  41st  parallel  of  north  latitude.  The  dry 
plains  of  Texas,  and  the  upper  region  of  the  Arkansas, 
possess  all  the  characteristics  of  the  Asiatic  table-lands ; 
further  to  the  north,  the  lifeless,  treeless  steppes  on  the 
high  grounds  of  the  far  West  are  scorched  and  scathed  in 
summer,  and  frozen  in  winter  by  keen,  harsh  blasts 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Towards  the  Mississippi  the 
condition  of  the  land  improves;  but  at  its  delta  extends 
a  labyrinth  of  lagoons,  and  creeks,  and  shallow  lakes, 
intersected  with  jungles  of  dense  brushwood.  "  There 
are  also  large  tracts, "  says  Mrs.  Somerville,  "  of  forest  and 
saline  ground,  especially  the  Grand  Saline  between  the 
rivers  Arkansas  and  Neseikelongo,  which  is  often  covered 
two  or  three  inches  deep  with  salt,  like  a  fall  of  snow. 
All  the  cultivation  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  is  along 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  in  the  adjacent  provinces,  and  is 
entirely  Tropical,  consisting  of  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and 
indigo.  The  prairies,  so  characteristic  of  North  America, 
then  begin." 

And  what  are  these  prairies? 

Leagues  upon  leagues  of  undulating  meadow-land,  some- 
(82) 


times  as  level  as  a  verdant  pasture— sometimes  broken 
up  by  considerable  ridges  or  valleys— nearly  always,  to 
the  eye,  as  boundless  as  the  sea.  Almost  the  entire  area 
— we  are  here  speaking  in  general  terms — is  covered  with 
long  rank  grass  of  tender  green,  and  lighted  up  by  flowers 
of  the  liliaceous  tribe,  which  charm  with  their  beauty,  and 
fill  the  air  with  fragrance.  Occasionally,  the  more  mono- 
tonous breadths  of  the  grassy  plain  are  relieved  by  the 
sparkle  of  a  brook  ;  and  animation  is  given  to  the  land- 
scape by  the  frequent  appearance  of  herds  of  bison, 
deer,  and  antelope.  At  times,  in  the  remote  districts, 
the  prairie  wolves  may  be  observed  in  their  leafy  coverts 
on  the  watch  for  prey;  or  ilights  of  birds  darken  the 
air,  and  tempt  the  traveller  with  the  promise  of  an 
abundant  provision  ;  or  large  tracts  are  covered  with 
sage-brush. 

Travellers  soon  learn,  it  has  been  remarked,  when 
making  estimates  of  a  country's  value,  to  despise  no 
feature  of  the  landscape ;  that  of  the  plains  is  full  of 
life,  full  of  charm — lonely,  indeed,  but  never  wearisome. 
Now  great  waving  uplands  of  enormous  sweep,  now 
boundless  grassy  plains ;  there  is  all  the  grandeur  of 
monotony,  and  yet  continual  change.    Sometimes  the  dis- 


16 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


tances  are  broken  by  blue  buttes  or  rugged  bluflfs.  Over 
all  there  is  a  sparkling  atmosphere  and  never-failing 
breeze;  the  air  is  bracing  even  when  most  hot;  the  sky 
is  cloudless,  and  no  rain  falls.  A  solitude  which  no 
words  can  paint,  and  the  boundless  prairie  swell,  convey 
an  idea  of  vastness  which  is  the  overpowering  feature  of 
the  plains. 

It  may  even  be  aiSrmed  that  maps  do  not  remove 
the  impression  produced  by  the  eye.  The  Arkansas  River, 
which  is  born  and  dies  within  the  limit  of  the  plains, 
is  two  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  is  navigable  for 
eight  hundred  miles.  The  Flatte  and  Yellowstone  is 
each  of  them  as  long.  Into  the  plains  and  plateau  you 
could  put  all  India  twice.  The  impression  is  not 
merely  one  of  size.  There  is  perfect  beauty,  wondrous 
fertility,  in  the  lonely  steppe  ;  no  patriotism,  no  love 
of  home,  can  prevent  the  traveller  wishing  here  to  end 
his  days. 

It  has  justly  been  remarked  that  a  double  charm  exists 
in  the  prairies  for  those  who  love  the  sea.  Their  "roll," 
or  undulating  sweep,  is  not  inferior  in  grandeur  to  that 
of  the  Atlantic  ;  while  the  freshness  of  the  wind,  the  want 
of  trees,  the  multitude  of  tiny  blossoms  on  the  sod,  all 
(82) 


combine  to  impress  us  with  a  feeling  of  nearness  to  the 
ocean,  until  we  fully  expect  to  behold  its  grand  expanse 
from  the  next  hillock. 

The  abundance  of  flowers  is  a  marked  feature— in 
summer  the  colour  of  the  landscape  is  green  and  flowers; 
in  fall-time  yellow  and  flowers;  but  flowers  ever. 

Occasionally,  however,  we  come  upon  barren  tracts — 
tracts  of  sand,  only  relieved  by  the  grassy  boi'ders  of  the 
streams  which  traverse  them,  and  filled  with  the  dog- 
towns,  or  settlements  of  the  prairie  dogs.  According  to 
the  late  Fitz  Hugh  Ludlow,  their  burrows  are  frequently 
inhabited  by  owls.  It  may  be  merely  a  coincidence,  he 
says,  that  owls  and  dogs  are  found  so  constantly  about 
the  same  burrows;  it  may  be  that  their  burrows  are 
contiguous,  but  not  shared.  I  am  only  repeating,  he 
says,  what  my  eyes  saw,  or  thought  they  saw,  a  great 
many  times.  When  the  sun  had  departed,  and  a  purple 
gray  was  spreading  over  hill,  and  sky,  and  river,  the 
prairie  dogs  who  had  been  babbling  their  lively  good-night 
for  an  hour  or  so,  whisked  their  last  tail  within  their 
burrows,  and  became  silent  all  at  once.  Then,  to  all 
appearance  out  of  the  same  burrows,  came  one  by  one  a 
host  of  little  grayish  owls,  who,  with  the  low  furtive 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  HAILROAD. 


17 


fliglit  of  all  the  nocturnal  species,  stole  about  the  sand- 
banks and  down  to  the  river-side.  Every  now  and  then 
one  of  them  returned  to  the  dog-town,  dropped  down  at 
the  entrance  to  some  burrow,  and  vanished  from  the  most 
curious  gaze. 

Another  noticeable  characteristic  of  these  plains  is, 
that  they  can  receive  and  swallow  up  millions  of  human 
inhabitants,  and  yet  are  always  waiting  open-mouthed 
for  more.  Vast  and  silent,  fertile  yet  waste,  field-like 
yet  unfilled,  they  have  room  for  the  Pluns,  the  Goths, 
the  Vandals — for  all  the  teeming  hosts  that  have  poured 
in  and  can  pour  from  the  great  plains  of  Asia  and  the 
overstocked  granary  of  Central  Europe.  Twice  as  large 
as  Hindostan,  moi'e  temperate,  more  habitable,  Nature 
has  placed  them  here  hedgeless,  gateless,  free  to  all — 
a  green  field  for  tlie  support  of  half  the  human  race,  un- 
claimed, untouched,  and  awaiting,  smiling,  both  hands 
and  plough. 

And  now,  before  beginning  our  long  journey  across  the 
continent,  we  would  attempt  to  gather  up  some  experi- 
ences of  former  tourists.     We  will  suppose  that  the  fore- 
noon train  is  preparing  to  start  on  its  run  of  upwards  of 
(82) 


one  thousand  miles  from  the  terminus  at  Omaha  to  the 
western  one  at  Ogden,  which  is  also  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  Central  Pacific.  Here,  as  at  most  American  and 
British  railroad  stations,  a  great  confusion  prevails. 
These  passengers  who  are  always  in  a  hurry,  and  always 
losing  their  baggage,  ai'e  hurrying  to  and  fro,  to  their 
own  confusion  and  to  the  confusion  of  all  who  become 
involved  with  them.  Others,  having  cleared  themselves 
of  all  mental  agitation  in  reference  to  this  matter,  pro- 
ceed to  the  office  and  secure  berths  in  Pullraann's  Sleep- 
ing Car.  As  the  number  of  these  berths  is  limited,  the 
disappointment  of  many  applicants  is  very  bitter,  for  the 
prospect  of  spending  several  nights  in  an  ordinary  car  is 
sufficient  to  depress  the  mind  and  daunt  the  courage  of 
the  ordinary  traveller. 

Thei-e  is  much  instruction  to  be  obtained  from  a  study 
of  the  passengers.  Some,  with  long  beards  and  bronzed 
faces,  -we  take  to  be  old  Californians,  returning  home 
after  a  visit  to  their  native  place  somewhere  on  the 
eastern  border.  Others  going  to  San  Francisco,  deter- 
mined to  make  their  fortunes;  and  not  a  few  are  Ameri- 
cans or  Europeans,  bound  on  a  journey  of  pleasure,  to 
test  the  capabilities  of  the  new  route,  to  survey  a  new 


18 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


country,  to  enjoy  the  wonders  of  California.  Many  are 
timid,  others  are  confident  and  easy.  Some  find  a  de- 
light in  stimulating  the  fears  of  the  former  by  tales  of 
peril,  and  of  possible  obstructions  from  the  musket  or 
tomahawk  of  wild  Indians.  Have  these  talesanythingto  do 
with  the  sale  of  insurance  tickets,  which  is  vigorously 
promoted  by  the  fluent  tongues  of  the  agents  of  railroad 
insurance  companies'!  Atall events,  it  is  a  prudent  pre- 
caution to  take  one.  As  we  read  in  "  Appleton's  Hand- 
book of  American  Travel,"  the  last  piece  of  advice  given 
in  the  introduction  is,  "  Haviuglaid  in  your  necessary  sup- 
plies, it  only  remain."!  for  you  to  insure  yourself  against 
accident  by  sea  or  land."  But,  taken  as  a  whole,  we  are 
not  much  troubled  by  thoughts  of  accident  by  sea  or  land. 
We  wanted  to  cross  the  continent,  and  we  have  done  it. 


II.-OMAHA  TO  CHEYENNE. 

Sir  Charles  Dilke  is  of  opinion  that  Omaha  bids  fair 
to  become  the  capital  of  the   "Far  West;"   Jlr.   Rae 
remarks  that  it  is  one  of  those  American  cities  which 
(82) 


seem  to  spring  up,  flourish,  and  wax  great  in  the  twink- 
ling of  an  eye.  Its  history  dates  from  1854,  when  it  was 
f  lunded  by  a  few  squatters;  among  whom  was  A.  D. 
Jones,  now  one  of  the  "solid"  men  of  the  place.  "  In 
the  fall  of  that  year  he  received  the  appointment  of  post- 
master for  the  place,  which  as  yet  had  no  post-office.  As 
Mr.  Jones  was  one  of  the  most  accommodating  of  men,  he 
improvised  a  post-office  by  using  the  crown  of  his  hat  for 
that  purpose.  Few  letters  arrived,  therefore  the  old 
plug  hat  answered  every  object.  When  the  post-master 
met  one  of  his  few  neighbours,  if  there  was  a  letter  for 
him,  off  came  the  hat  from  the  post-master's  head,  while 
he  fished  out  the  missive,  and  placed  it  in  the  hands  of 
its  owner.  It  is  said  that,  at  times,  when  the  post- 
master was  on  the  prairie,  some  anxiously  expectant 
individual  would  chase  him  for  miles  until  he  over- 
took the  travelling  post-office,  and  received  his  letter." 
Omaha,  however,  can  now  boast  of  a  permanent  post- 
office,  under  the  superintendence  of  a  post-master  and  six 
clerks. 

The  town  is  seated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  on  a  sloping  upland,  which  rises  some  50 
feet  above  the  river,  and  9G6  feet  above  the  sea.    Its  popu- 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


19 


liti'  n  numbers  about  25,000.  It  possesses  two  daily,  and 
t'owv  other  newspapers.  It  has  twenty-seven  manufac- 
tories, one  distillery,  six  breweries;  its  hotels,  twelve  in 
number,  of  wliich  three  are  first-class;  fifteen  churches; 
and  schools,  public  and  private,  in  proportion  to  the 
population. 

Omaha  is  not  only  the  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific, 
but  of  the  Omaha  and  North-Western,  and  Omaha  and 
South-Western  Railways.  The  former  strikes  up  the 
l']lkhorn  Valley  to  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara;  the  latter 
traverses  the  Missouri  River  Valley,  and  crosses  the 
Platte  to  Lincoln,  the  capital  of  Nebraska. 

The  Omaha  barracks,  to  the  north  of  the  city,  were 
built  in  1868,  and  can  accommodate  8000  men. 

Summit  Siding  (i  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  1142  feet. 
The  surrounding  scenery  is  rich  and  well-cultivated,  and 
as  yet  we  have  no  evidences  of  the  silence  or  solitude  of 
the  West. 

Gillmore  (10  m.),  elevation  976  feet. 

Papillion  (15  m.),  elevation  972  feet,  on  the  east 
side  of  the  narrow  stream  of  Papillion  Creek,  a  tributary 
of  the  Elkliorn. 

Elkhorn  (29  ni.),  elevation  1150  feet,  situated  on  a 
(82) 


river  of  the  same  name.  The  place  is  one  of  considerable 
and  increasing  traffic. 

The  Elkhorn  River  is  about  300  miles  long.  The  valley 
through  which  it  flows  averages  about  eight  miles  in  width, 
and  abounds  in  productive  land.  It  has  become  a  com- 
plete German  settlement ;  and  the  settlers  have  brought 
their  native  industry  to  bear  upon  the  cultivation  of  the 
soil,  and  each  snug  farm-house  stands  embowered  in  a 
beautiful  and  productive  orchard,  or  surrounded  by  a 
well-tilled  garden.  They  need  be  at  no  loss  for  cheap, 
abundant,  and  varied  supplies  of  food.  The  stream  is 
full  of  buffalo-fish,  pickerel,  pike,  cat-fish,  and  several 
other  kinds.  Its  surface  is  also  covered  at  certain  sea- 
sons with  ducks  and  geese,  which  come  here  for  the  pur- 
pose of  breeding  and  feeding.  Then  the  hunter's  skill  is 
called  into  requisition  to  chase  the  wild  turkey  on  the 
hills,  and  the  deer  and  antelope.  Sum  up  all  these  pro- 
ducts, and  you  will  find,  as  the  result,  that  an  hospitable 
settler  can  place  before  you  a  bill  of  fare  of  first-rate 
quality. 

Valky  (35  m.),  elevation  1120  feet. 

Fremont  (47  m.),  elevation  1176  feet,  is  the  principal 
town  of  Dodge  County,  in  the  territory  of  Nebraska. 


20 


THE  UNIOK  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


There  are  here  a  telegraph  station  and  an  excellent  "re- 
freshment bar."  The  population  is  about  2000.  Here 
the  Sioux  City  and  Pacific  Eailroad  unites  with  the 
Union  Pacific. 

The  Platte  River  now  comes  in  sight,  and  we  may 
justly  say  of  it  that  "distance  lends  enchantment  to  the 
view."  Its  breadth  is  fully  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and 
hence  you  would  suppose  it  a  fit  stream  for  argosies  to 
navigate  it ;  but  draw  near,  and  you  find  it  has  only  six 
inches  depth  of  turbid  water.  We  skirt  its  bank  for  a 
considerable  distance,  following  up  the  old  track  of  the 
pioneers  of  civilization,  who,  for  the  last  twenty  years, 
have  steadily  directed  their  steps  further  and  further  to 
the  westward. 

Every  traveller  is  impressed  by  his  first  view  of  the 
Platte  Valley;  but  he  should  endeavour  to  obtain  that 
first  view  in  latter  spring  or  in  the  early  summer,  when 
everywliere  a  bloom  and  freshness  rest  upon  the  scene. 
Otherwise,  if  lie  delay  until  the  plains  have  been  scorched, 
and  the  grasses  and  flowers  have  withered,  and  the 
streams  no  longer  murmur,  he  will  wonder  at  the  en- 
thusiastic accounts  of  more  fortunate  touri.sts.  Let  it  be 
his  consolation  then,  however,  that  if  the  brightness  and 
(82) 


beauty  have  vanished,  the  sublimity  remains.  The  scene 
may  be  less  tender,  and  pathetic,  and  attractive;  but  it 
is  grander,  it  is  more  majestic.  It  may  not  appeal  to  the 
fancy,  but  it  does  to  the  imagination.  We  prefer  it  in 
its  summer  aspect ;  but  for  ethers,  the  broad,  almost 
boundless  plain,  whose  horizon  is  bounded  only  by  the 
sky,  may  have  a  greater  eflect — may  appeal  more  strongly 
to  their  sense  of  the  marvellous,  the  lofty,  and  the  in- 
finite ! 

From  the  Platte  River  up  to  Sherman  the  railroad  is 
guarded  by  United  States  troops,  posted  in  bodies  of  from 
thirty  to  fifty  men  at  intervals  of  ten  miles  along  the 
line.  It  is  a  curious  sight  to  come  upon  the  lonely 
sentinels  stationed  on  their  distant  eminences,  and  each 
on  the  look-out  for  the  Indian.  We  wonder  what  he 
thinks  of !  Of  the  strange  scenery  around  him  ?  I'hat 
soon  grows  familiar  to  his  accustomed  eye.  Of  some 
sweet  maiden  far  away?  Or  of  the  home  circle  which 
mourns  its  absent  member  1  Perhaps  so ;  but,  at  all 
events,  the  thought  of  duty  will  be  first  and  foremost 
with  him. 

Kctchum  (54  m.). 

JVorth  Bend  {62  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  1259  feet. 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


21 


Since  the  formation  of  the  rrulway,  a  population  of  400 
lias  gathered  here,  and  the  rich  corn-fields  all  around  are 
satisfactory  evidence  of  their  prosperity. 

Schuyhr  (76  m.),  elevation  1335  feet,  is  the  princi- 
pal town  (400  inhabitants)  of  Colfax  County. 

Cooper  (84  m.),  an  unimportant  station. 

Columbus  (92  m.).  a  town  with  a  population  of  about 
1000,  containing  three  churches,  scliools,  warehouses, 
hotels,  and  other  additamenta,  is  situated  at  an  elevation 
of  1432  feet  above  the  sea,  so  that  we  have  already 
accomplished  an  ascent  of  nearly  500  feet. 

Crossing  Loop  Fork,  an  excellent  piscatorial  stream, 
on  a  sound  substantial  bridge  of  timber,  we  quickly  reach 
the  small  flag-station  oi  Jackson. 

Here,  we  are  told,  many  passengers  see  Indians  for 
the  first  time ;  that  is,  genuine  Indians,  who  live  by  hunt- 
ing, and  take  a  pride  in  getting  scalps.  They  are  Pawnees, 
professed  allies  of  the  United  States  Government,  but  by 
no  means  disinclined  to  "pot "  a  solitary  Yankee.  They 
probably  consider  themselves  civilized,  for  each  carries  a 
revolver  in  the  belt  strapped  round  his  waist.  That  they 
are  stanch  adherents  to  old  traditions  is  proved  by  an 
inspection  of  their  encampment.  Outside  the  buts  are 
(82) 


poles  stuck  into  the  ground  ;  and  from  the  tops  of  these 
poles  wisps  of  hair  flutter  in  the  breeze.  The  seeker 
after  knowledge  will,  of  course,  inquire  the  meaning  of 
this  sign,  and  will  be  informed  that  the  said  wisps  of 
hair  are  ti-iuraphant  trophies  severed  from  the  scalps 
of  conquered  enemies.  We  agree  with  a  recent  writer 
that  these  Indians,  whose  only  proof  of  civilization  is 
the  addition  of  the  revolver  to  the  scalping  knife,  are 
not  persons  for  whom  it  is  possible  to  entertain  any 
very  great  admiration,  except  in  the  novels  of  Fenimore 
Cooper. 

Crossing  Silver  Creek,  we  arrive  at 

Silver  Creek  Station  (109  m.),  elevation  1534  feet. 

Clark's  Station  (121  m.). 

Lone  Tree  (132  m.),  elevation  1686  feet.  The  old 
emigrant  road  from  Omaha  to  Colorado  crossed  the 
river  opposite  this  point  at  Shinn's  Ferry. 

Nothing  delays  us  at  Chapman's  Station  (142  m.),  and 
we  speed  on  to 

Grand  Island  (154  m.),  elevation  1850  feet,  where  thirty 
minutes  are  allowed  for  supper.  The  principal  hotel 
is  Nebraska  House.  The  island  from  which  this  small 
but  tliriving  town  (pop.,  600)  takes  its  name  is  situated 


THE  XjNION  pacific  RAILROAD. 


in  the  Platte  Hiver,  about  two  miles  distant,  is  richly 
wooded,  and  measures  about  80  miles  in  length  by  4  miles 
in  width. 

Here  we  take  leave  of  schools  and  churches,  and 
keep  "our  eyes  peeled  "  for  buffalo  ;  the  next  200  miles 
being  the  buffalo  range,  or  the  range  of  such  buffaloes  as 
escape  the  hunter's  rifle,  and  the  gradual  cropping  out 
of  their  food,  the  bunch  grass,  to  give  way  to  the  corn 
plant. 

Paicnee  (162  m.). 

Crossing  Wood  River,  we  skirt  its  thickly  cultivated 
banks  for  several  miles,  and,  at  an  elevation  of  1974  feet, 
reach 

Wood  River  Station  (172  m.). 

Gibbon  a^i  ra.). 

Kearney  (191  m.),  elevation  2106  feet.  On  the  oppo- 
eite  side  of  the  river  is  Fort  Kearney,  first  established  in 
1848,  and  rebuilt  in  1S58. 

Stevenson  (201  m.). 

Elm  Cretk(2\2  in.).  After  crossing  this  small  stream, 
which  winds  its  way  through  a  perfect  forest  of  elms,  and 
passing  Overton,  we  arrive  at 

Plum  Creek  (230  m.),  elevation  2370  feet. 
(82) 


Caijote  (240  m. ).  From  this  point  we  begin  to  lose 
sight  of  woods  and  groves,  and  the  scenery  at  every  mile 
becomes  less  interesting. 

Willow  Idand  (250  m.),  elevation  2511  feet. 

"Here  may  be  seen  a  few  board  and  log-houses,  vrith  their 
sides  pierced  with  loop-lioles  and  walled  \ip  with  turf,  the 
roofs  being  covered  with  the  same  material,  which  reminds 
one  of  the  savage,  against  whom  these  precautions  were  taken. 
It  derives  its  name  from  an  island  in  the  Platte,  the  second  in 
size  in  that  stream.  And  we  may  add,  that  from  here,  np  the 
river,  the  traveller  will  doubtless  observe  many  of  the  nido 
forts  along  the  roadside  as  well  as  at  the  stations.  The  de- 
serted ranches  to  be  met  with  along  the  'old  emigrant  road,' 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  are  fortified  in  the  same  manner. 
The  fort  was  generally  built  of  logs,  covered  on  the  roof  and 
sides  as  already  described.  They  were  pierced  in  every  direc- 
tion with  loop-holes,  and  afforded  a  safe  protection  against  the 
Indians.  '  They  generally  stood  about  fifty  yards  from  the 
settler's  hut.  from  which  a  subterranean  passage  led  to  the 
fort;  and  to  this  fort  the  settler  and  his  household  retreated 
when  an  Indian  attack  was  threatened.'" 

Warren  (260  m.). 

nrady  Island  (268  ni.),  elevation  2637  feet.  In  the 
vicinity  is  Fort  Macj^herson,  so  named  in  honour  of 
one  of  the  national  officers  who  fell  in  the  "Rebellion," 


THK  UNION  PACIFIC  UAILIIOAD. 


■Zli 


July  22,  1864.  It  is  garrisoned  by  five  coiupaiiies  of 
]ic;ht  cavalry. 

Macphcrson^s  Station  (277  lu.). 

Crossing  tlie  Nortii  Platte  on  a  substantial  trestle  briJge 
of  great  length,  we  in  due  time  arrive  at 

North  Platte  C'iJy  (291  ra.),  elevation  2789;  distance 
from  Sacramento,  1485  miles  east.  This  was  at  one  time 
a  rendezvous  of  roughs  and  gamblers;  its  morality  is 
purer  now,  though  its  commercial  prosperity  has  departed, 
iuiil  its  population  sunk  from  2000  to  200.  The  Kailroad 
Gom]jany  have  some  works  here. 

i\^tc/;ors  (299  m.). 

0' Fallon's  (307  m.).  Observe,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  the  curiously  rent  and  riveu  sandhills,  now 
approaching  the  stream  in  bold  promontories  which 
force  it  out  of  its  channel,  and  now  diverging  from  it 
in  hollows  and  ravines  of  a  singular  character.  Soon 
afterwards,  we  enter  upon  what  is  called  tlie  "Alkali 
13elt,"  extending  to  Julesburg,  about  70  miles.  "The 
soil  and  water  are  here  impregnated  very  strongly  with 
alkali  substances." 

Passing  Alkali  and  Tloscoe,  we  reach 

Oyalalla  (341  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  3190  feet;  Brule 
(82) 


(351  m.);  and  Big  Springs  (361  in.),  at  an  elevation  of 
3325  feet,  so  named  from  a  copious  stream  that  wells  out 
of  the  opposite  sandhills. 

Julesburg  (377  m.),  elevation  3500  feet,  was  another 
rendezvous  for  the  "rowdy  men  of  the  West,"  until 
the  railroad  brought  in  its  track  the  forces  of  law  and 
order. 

From  this  point  to  Denver,  in  Colorado,  the  distance, 
along  the  windings  of  the  Platte  River,  is  200  miles. 

Leaving  Julesburg,  we  enter  the  valley  of  the  Lodge 
Pole  Greek,  pass  Chapjiel  (387  ni,);  and  at  Lodge  Pole 
(397  ni,)  attain  an  elevation  of  3800  feet.  The  surround- 
ing country  grows  very  picturesque,  and  broad  areas  of 
prairie  grass  are  pleasantly  diversified  by  narrow  vullevs. 
Antelopes  abound. 

Colton  (408  m.). 

Sidmi/  (414  ra.),  in  Nabraska  Territory.  At  this  place 
is  sometimes  posted  a  company  of  Uncle  Sam's  Regulars. 
The  train  stops  here  to  allow  its  passengers  half  an  hour 
for  refreshment.  The  Company  have  a  machine-sho[j  and 
some  other  works  at  this  station;  and  the  town  itself, 
though  not  containing  above  200  inhabitants,  is  evidently 
de.stined  for  an  important  career. 


24 


THE  UXrON  TACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Brownson  (423  m.). 

Potter  (433  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  4370  feet. 

In  this  vicinity  the  acute  traveller  will  begin  to 
make  acquaintance  with  the  cayeutes,  or  prairie  dogs, 
and  at  about  three  miles  from  the  station  is  situated  the 
great  prairie-dog  city,  occupying  several  hundred  acres, 
honey-combed  by  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  subterranean 
burrows. 

The  prairie  dog  or  Wish-ton-Wish  {Spermopkilus  Ludo- 
vicianus)  is  a  rodent,  and  not  a  carnivorous  animal,  and 
its  popular  name  is  due  to  the  short  yelping  sound  which 
it  is  fond  of  uttering,  and  which  resembles,  in  some  re- 
spects, the  bark  of  a  young  puppy.  It  is  a  pretty  and 
rather  curious  animal,  measuring  about  sixteen  inches  in 
total  length.  Its  general  shape  is  round  and  flattish,  and 
the  head  is  peculiarly  flat,  giving  to  the  animal  a  very  re- 
markable aspect.  The  fur  is  grayish  red;  that  is,  chest- 
nut alternated  with  gray. 

It  is  a  burrowing  animal,  and  exceedingly  prolific; 
multiplying  rapidly,  and  extending  its  excavations  to  vast 
distances. 

"Indeed,"  says  Wood,  in  a  book  known  to  many  of  our 
readers, — "Homes  Without  Hands," — "  when  once  the  prairie 
(82) 


dogs  settle  themselves  in  a  convenient  spot,  their  increase 
seems  to  have  no  bounds,  and  the  little  heaps  of  earth  near 
the  mouth  of  their  burrows  extend  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

"The  burrows,"  continues  our  authority,  "are  of  consider- 
able dimensions,  and  evidently  run  to  no  small  depth,  as  one 
of  tliem  has  been  known  to  absorb  five  barrels  of  water  without 
being  filled.  It  is  not  impossible,  however,  that  there  might 
have  been  a  communication  with  some  other  burrow,  or  that 
the  soil  might  have  been  loose  and  porous,  and  suffered  the 
water  to  soak  through  its  substance.  They  are  dug  in  a  sloping 
direction,  forming  an  angle  of  about  45°  with  the  horizon,  and 
after  descending  for  five  or  six  feet,  they  take  a  sudden  turn, 
and  rise  gradually  upwards.  Thousands  and  thousands  of 
these  burrows  are  dug  in  close  proximity  to  each  other,  and 
honey-comb  the  ground  to  such  an  extent  that  if  is  rendered 
quite  unsafe  for  horses. 

"The  scene  presented  by  one  of  these  'dog  towns'  or  'vil- 
lages,' as  the  assemblages  of  burrows  are  called,  is  most 
curious,  and  well  repays  the  trouble  of  approaching  without- 
alarming  the  cautious  little  animals,  f  ortimately  for  the 
traveller,  the  prairie  dog  is  as  inquisitive  as  it  is  wary,  and 
the  indulgence  of  its  curiosity  often  costs  the  little  creature 
its  life.  Perched  on  the  hillocks  which  have  already  been 
mentioned,  the  prairie  dog  is  able  to  survey  a  wide  extent  of 
horizon,  and  as  soon  as  it  sees  an  intruder,  it  gives  a  sharp 
yelp  of  alarm,  and  dives  into  its  burrow,  its  little  feet  knock- 
ing together  with  a  ludicrous  flourish  as  it  disappears.  In 
every  direction  a  similar  scene  is  enacted.    "Warned  by  the 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAt). 


25 


well-known  cry,  all  the  prairio  dogs  within  reach  repeat  tho 
call,  and  leap  into  their  burrows.  Their  curiosity,  however, 
is  irrepressible,  and  scarcely  have  their  feet  vanislied  from 
sight,  than  their  heads  are  seen  cautiously  protruded  from  the 
burrow,  and  their  inquisitive  brown  eyes  sparkle  as  they 
examine  the  cause  of  the  disturbance." 

The  stations  of  Bennett  (442  m.1  and  Antelope  (451  m.) 
may  be  passed  with  the  remark,  that  at  the  latter  point 
begin  the  immense  grassy  plains  which  must  one  day  be- 
come the  " great  pasture  laud  "  of  the  continent.  They 
extend  for  about  700  miles  in  length  north  and  south, 
and  about  200  to  250  miles  east  and  west.  The  herbage 
of  these  plains  is  peculiarly  nutritious,  and  grows  from 
nine  to  twelve  inches  high. 

It  is  said  that  in  this  unsettled  country  there  is  abun- 
dant feeding  ground — and  we  should  be  disposed  to  second 
the  assertion— for  millions,  we  cannot  say  how  many  mil- 
lions, of  cattle,  and  that  then  there  would  be  grazing  land 
left  enough  for  fattening  half  the  stock  in  the  Union. 
The  grass  is  good,  and  water  is  plentiful,  and  there 
are  no  dangerous  vermin,  and  the  cattle  plague  is  un- 
known. In  summer  the  dryness  of  tiie  atmosphere  is 
such  that  it  turns  the  standing  grass  into  a  naturally 
(82) 


prepared  standing  hay,  without  injuring  its  nutritious 
properties;  then,  after  the  rains,  or  even  the  snow,  up 
comes  the  grass  again,  as  green  as  any  verdant  farjuer 
could  wish  to  see  it. 

A  predecessor  on  "this  line  "  grows  quite  enthusiastic 
about  this  region  of  green  pastures.  Why,  he  says,  why 
not  stock  it  with  sheep  1  See  what  room  there  is  for 
the  largest  flocks  ever  brought  together  !  and  tlien,  ready 
at  hand,  you  have  water-power  for  your  manufactories, 
so  that  you  have  only  to  get  your  wool,  and  manufacture 
it  into  cloth  on  the  spot,  and  despatch  your  supplies  in 
all  directions.  And,  seriously,  there  is  no  reason  at  all 
why  this  great  valley  should  not  rival  in  wealth  and  pros- 
perity the  territory  of  Colorado,  with  its  flocks  of  sheep 
and  herds  of  cattle. 

At  Bushnell,  12  miles  west  of  Antelope,  we  have  attained 
the  astonishing  elevation  of  4860  feet.  Here  we  enter 
the  territory  of  Wi/ominff,  whose  name  has  been  made 
familiar  to  us  by  Campbell's  graceful  poem;  though  the 
poet's  "Wyoming "wassituated on  "Susquelianna'sside," 
and  not  in  the  Far  West. 

Pine  Bluffs  (473  m.),  elevation  5026  feet.  Pine  trees 
are  abundant  in  this  neighbourhood. 


26 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Egbert  (484  m.),  wbere  we  take  leave  of  Lodge  Pole 
Creek,  whose  grass}'  valley  was  once  a  favourite  huntiDg 
ground  of  the  Sioux  and  Cbe^eune  Indians. 

HiUsdale  {i96  ra.). 

Soon  after  we  pass  this  station,  our  ej'es  are  greeted 
with  a  glimpse  of  the  Rocky  Mountains— the  vast  moun- 
tain-chain that,  with  great  varieties  of  configuration,  ex- 
tends from  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 
and  flings  off  its  final  extremity  in  the  rugged  island  of 
Tierra  del  Fuego,  A  wondrous  barrier,  which  Nature 
seems  to  have  reared  to  prevent  the  encroachment  of  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  The  higliBst  peak  that  rises  above 
its  dark,  distant  line  is  Long's,  which  towers  to  a  height 
of  some  15,000  feet ;  and  to  the  left  the  snow-capped  crest 
of  Pike's  Peak  is  not  less  than  13,000  feet  above  the  sea- 
level. 

It  may  be  as  well  here  to  introduce  a  brief  general 
description  of  this  great  range,  or,  more  correctly  speak- 
ing, of  these  ranges  of  mountains  which  occupy  the  central 
and  western  portions  of  our  continent,  forming  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Mexican  Cordilleras,  and  extending  as 
far  north  as  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  lie  between  the 
Pacific  and  105°  W.  long.,  with  a  breadth  of  about  1000 
(82) 


miles,  and  cover  an  area  of  980,000  square  miles.  Tliey 
form  two  parallel  chains  from  the  Sierra  Verde  to  the 
mouth  of  the  River  Mackenzie,  and  these  chains  are 
occasionally  united  by  a  transverse  ridge.  From  lat.  32° 
to  40°  N.,  the  double  line  bears  nearly  north  and  south  ; 
then  from  40°  to  45°  N.,  the  course  is  north-west,  and 
turning  somewhat  sharply  to  the  left  they  next  pursue  a 
route  nearly  parallel  to  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  throwing 
off  several  spurs,  and  some  isolated  peaks,  one  of  which 
—Mount  Elias,  lat.  61°  N.,  long  141°  W.-is  17,800  feet 
high,  and  planted  like  a  sentinel  on  the  boundary  between 
the  British  possessions  and  our  recently  acquired  terri- 
tory of  Alaska, 

Some  of  the  loftiest  peaks  are.  Mount  Chaster,  in  the 
North  California  range,  14,000  feet  high ;  Fremont's 
Peak,  near  the  sources  of  the  Colorado  and  Yellowstone 
rivers,  13,570  feet  ;  Mount  Brown,  in  British  Columbia, 
16,000  feet ;  and  Mount  Hocker,  15,700  feet.  The 
passes  vary  in  elevation  from  6000  to  7000  feet,  and  an 
immense  mass  of  the  rugged  mountain  table-lands  is 
between  4000  and  5000  feet.  The  pass  through  which 
our  railroad  is  carried  is  the  only  one  possible  for  a  i-ail- 
road  ;  and  it  is  quite  allowable  to  suppose  that  all-seeing 


THE  UNION   PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


27 


Nature  left  it  open  specially  for  the  establish nieiit  by  iiiuii 
of  a  channel  of  communication  between  Eastern  and 
Western  America. 

The  geological  formations  of  which  the  mountains  are 
composed  are  gneiss,  granite  (mainly  so  in  the  railroad 
regiiin),  porphyries,  mica  and  talcose  slates,  and  gold- 
bearing  quartz,  with  deposits  of  mercury,  silver,  coal, 
petroleum,  and  carboniferous  limestone.  This  descrip- 
tion applies,  of  course,  to  tiie  general  range,  from  Mexico 
to  the  Arctic  Ocean  ;  but  the  details  cannot  but  be  useful 
to  a  traveller  who  is  sure  to  have  left  his  geography- book 
behind  him. 

The  central  forms  the  watershed,  dividing  the  rivers 
that  fall  into  the  Pacific  from  tiiose  tliat  terminate  in  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  Hudson's  Bay,  or  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
And  between  the  first  and  second,  or  eastern  and  western 
ridges,  lie  the  territories  of  Utah  and  Sierra  Nevada, 
whose  rivers  find  their  outlets  in  the  great  lakes,  as  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  and  Humboldt  Lake. 

The  western  range  is  of  inferior  elevation  to  the  eastern 

still  north  of  the  fifty-fifth  parallel,  where  both  ranges 

attain  tiie   same   height.      They   are  generally  barren, 

thouijh  the  lateral  valleys  are  often  very  grassy  and  plea- 

(82) 


!-ant  hollows,  watered  by  running  brooks,  and  sometimes 
shaded  with  trees.  Their  sole  ofl'set  in  the  south  is  the 
Saba  and  Ozark  mountains,  which  traverse  Texas  to  the 
-Mississippi.  The  valley,  or  depression,  between  the  two 
ranges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  is  100  miles  and 
more  in  width,  reaches  a  considerable  elevation  beyond  the 
railroad  track,  as  we  know  that  the  tributaries  of  the 
Columbia  River  pour  down  its  rugged  course  in  a  series 
of  rapids  and  cataracts  for  nearly  100  miles ;  and  it  is 
probably  still  higher  towards  the  sources  of  the  Peace 
River,  where  tlie  mountains,  only  1500  feet  above  it,  are 
clad  in  everlasting  snow.  The  Sierra  Verde  lies  about  490 
miles  from  the  Pacific  ;  but,  as  the  coast  strikes  due  north 
to  the  Sound  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  the  western  range  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  maintains  a  distance  of  '650  miles  from 
the  ocean,  from  that  point  to  the  sixtieth  parallel  of 
north  latitude. 

Archer  (508  m.).  The  railroad  to  the  left  is  the  Den- 
ver Pacific,  which  meets  us  at 

Cheyenne  (516  m.).  The  town  is  situated  on  a  broad 
breezy  level,  watered  by  the  Crow  Creek,  at  an  elevation 
of  6041  feet.  It  is  1260  miles  distant  from  Sacramento, 
and  110  miles  from  Denver. 


28 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


There  is  not  much,  so  far  as  we  know,  to  say  about 
Cheyenne.  It  is  neither  so  small  as  it  was  at  first,  nor 
80  larsie  as  it  has  been,  and  may  again  be.  In  July  1867 
it  boasted  of  one  house.  About  a  year  and  a  half  later 
it  had  6000  inhabitants  ;  and  now,  perhaps,  the  popula- 
tion is  between  3000  and  4000.  And  there  is  no  doubt, 
too,  that  it  was  once  "a  rough  (a  very  rough)  place,"  and 
that  some  of  its  "  prominent  citizens  "  would  not  have 
been  deemed  pleasant  companions  by  you  or  us.  Its 
reckless  days,  however,  have  vanished  ;  the  worst  of 
the  population  seem  to  have  been  drafted  off  to  other 
places ;  and  the  streets  are  as  quiet  as  any  of  our  eastern 
cities,  where  the  reign  of  law  and  order  has  been  firmly 
established. 

Let  us  note  that  at  the  hotel  they  cook  (or  did  cook) 
capital  antelope  steaks.  They  make  a  capital  dish,  with 
a  flavour  something  between  that  of  beef  and  venison. 


in.— CHEYENNE  TO  WASH-A-KIE. 

After  thirty  minutes'  delay,  we  cross  Crow  Creek  (ob- 
serve Fort  Davy  Russell  in  the  distance),  and  arrive  at 
(82) 


Hazard  (523  m.),  where  there  is  a  beautiful  little 
mountain  pool.  Elevation  above  the  sea,  6325  feet. 
Eight  miles  farther,  and  we  reach 

Otto  (532  m.),  6724  feet,  having  risen  among  the  Black 
Hills  no  less  than  599  feet  in  this  short  distance. 

Granite  Canyon,  or  Cafwn  (536  m.),  7298  feet, — a  rise 
of  574  feet  in  five  miles,  or  about  121  feet  per  mile  ! 
Fences  of  timber,  or  rude  stone  dykes,  are  now  frequently 
met  with,  having  been  erected  as  protections  from  the 
winter  snow-storms.  Limestone  abounds  in  the  vicinity, 
and  many  kilns  have  been  erected. 

We  keep  along  a  tolerably  level  road  to 

Buford  (542  ra.),  where  the  rail  is  almost  covered  in 
by  heavy  snow  sheds,  and  the  train  seems  to  run  through 
a  corridor  of  solid  timber-work. 

At  549  miles  from  Omaha,  and  1227  from  Sacramento, 
we  reach  Sherman,  the  highest  point  on  any  railway 
in  the  world,  being  8242  feet  above  the  sea-level.  It 
was  named  after  General  Sherman,  the  "tallest"  com- 
mander in  the  United  States  army.  To  the  south-west, 
observe  Long's  Peak ;  to  the  south,  1G5  miles  distant. 
Pike's  Peak  ;  and  to  the  north-west,  about  100  miles, 
the  Elk  Mountains;  but  that  these  are  visible,  except 


THE  UNION  PACiriC  RAILROAD. 


29 


to  the  eyes  of  a  very  free  imagination,  \vc  may  reasonably 
doubt. 

"  Some  writers,"  says  an  English  traveller — and  he  is  quite 
right  in  quoting  them — "  strongly  advise  the  traveller  to  make  a 
halt  at  Slierman  Station.  The  inducements  held  out  are  moun- 
tain scenery,  invigorating  air,  fishing,  and  hunting.  A  sojourn 
among  the  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  has  the  attraction  of 
novelty  to  recommend  it.  Life  there  must  be,  in  every  sense 
of  the  word,  a  new  sensation.  But  some  sensations  are  unde- 
sirable, notwithstanding  their  undoubted  freshness.  That 
splendid  trout  swarm  in  the  streams  near  Sherman,  admits  of 
no  dispute.  Yet  the  disciple  of  Izaak  Walton  should  not  be 
tempted  to  indulge  rashly  in  his  harmless  and  charming  sport. 
It  is  delightful  to  hook  large  fish,  but  it  is  less  agreeable  to  be 
pierced  through  by  arrows.  Now  the  latter  contingency  is 
among  the  probabilities  which  must  be  taken  into  consideration. 
A  few  weeks  prior  to  my  journey,  one  of  the  conductors  of  the 
train  by  which  I  travelled  learned,  by  practical  experience,  that 
fishing  amid  the  Kocky  Mountains  has  palpable  and  painful 
drawbacks.  Having  taken  a  few  days'  holiday,  he  went  forth, 
fi.shing-rod  in  hand,  to  amuse  himself.  While  whipping  the 
stream,  in  the  innocence  of  his  heart,  he  was  startled  to  find 
himself  made  the  target  for  arrows  shot  by  wild  Indians.  He 
sought  safety  in  flight,  and  recovered  from  his  wounds,  to  the 
surprise  as  much  as  to  the  gratification  of  his  friends." 

It  is  with  no  small  pleasure  the  traveller  descends  from 

(82) 


such  aerial  altitudes,  and  breaks  into  a  romantically 
diversified  country,  where,  every  minute,  some  fresh 
combination  of  rock,  and  wood,  and  water  makes  up  a 
new  and  deligiitful  picture. 

About  3  miles  from  Sherman,  we  cross  Dale  Creek 
Bridge,  a  timber  structure,  650  feet  long,  and  J  26  feet 
high,  which  looks  unpleasantly  frail  at  a  distance,  but 
is  stout  enough  to  support  the  weight  of  the  heavie.st 
train. 

Harney  (558  m.),  elevation  7857  feet,  named  after  an 
old  general  in  the  United  States  service.  It  should  here 
be  noted  that  in  the  descent  from  Slierman  to  Laramie 
tlie  gradient  averages  over  47-2  feet  to  the  mile;  and  no 
steam  is  used  to  propel  the  train,  but  steadying  brakes  to 
arrest  and  guide  it.  Strong  snow  fences  are  found  here 
in  many  places. 

Red  Buttes  (564  m.),  elevation  7336  feet ;  so  named 
from  the  bold  masses  of  red  sandstone  planted  between 
the  rail  and  the  Black  Hill  Mountains.  Their  outlines 
are  remarkably  bold  and  various;  and  the  traveller's 
imagination  may  idealize  them  into  almost  any  form  he 
pleases. 

Fort  Saunders  Station  (570  m.),  7163  feet,  accommodates 


30 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


the  garrison  of  Fort  Saunders,  a  military  post  established 
in  1866,  and  held  by  a  couple  of  infantry  companies. 

Laramie  City  (573  m.),  elevation  7123  feet.  Here 
the  train  stops  for  thirty  minutes. 

Laramie  is  a  bran-new  settlement;  but  it  is  "going 
ahead"  with  remarkable  rapidity,  and  already  boasts  of 
a  newspaper-office,  a  school,  places  of  worship  for  Episco- 
palians, Methodists,  Baptists,  and  Presbyterians,  an  ad- 
mirable hotel,  the  Railway  Company's  workshops,  and  an 
hospital. 

We  are  now  in  the  heart  of  the  Laramie  Plains,  the 
finest  grazing  laud  in  this  jiart  of  the  continent.  Here 
thousands  of  buffaloes  fed  and  waxed  fat.  It  was  said 
that,  with  the  exception  of  Texas,  no  place  could  be 
found  where  cattle  might  be  more  easily  and  cheaply 
fattened. 

But  onward  speeds  the  iron  horse,  and  on  each  side  the 
green  plains  broaden,  as  the  mountains  fade  away  into  the 
lilue  and  distant  sky.  On  either  side  of  us  lies  the  rolling 
prairie,  and  yet  not  the  prairie  that  we  meet  with  in  Illinois 
and  Iowa.  Tiie  sage-brush  plant  bei;ins  to  show  itself. 
This  constitutes  the  sole  vegetation  of  the  dry,  barren 
track  that  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Great  American 
(82) 


Desert.  The  only  circumstance  brought  forward  iu 
favour  of  the  dreary  sage-brush  is  that,  when  used  medi- 
cinally, it  is  a  specific  for  ague.  It  has  been  remarked, 
that  were  the  malady  as  common  as  the  cure  is  plentiful, 
hardly  a  human  being  would  escape  an  attack  of  it.  On 
the  other  hand,  every  afflicted  invalid  would  be  able  to 
secure  a  remedy.  IMillions  of  acres  are  covered  with 
sage- brush. 

On  the  right  of  the  line  lies  a  small  sheet  of  water, 
to  which  the  name  of  Como  Lake  has  been  given.  We 
don't  pretend  that  in  anything  but  name  it  resembles 
the  famous  gem  of  Upper  Italy,  where  Lord  Lytton's 
hero,  Claude  Melnotte,  was  about  to  "  raise  a  palace 
to  eternal  summer;"  yet  it  is  very  bright  and  pleasing, 
and  a  relief  to  the  monotony  of  the  surrounding  wilder- 
ness. 

HowcU's  (oSl  m.). 

Wyomimj  (f)S7  m.),  elevation  7068  feet,  on  the  Little 
Laramie  River.  Crossing  Little  Laramie  and  Whisky 
Creek,  we  arrive  at 

Coojiers  Lake  Station  (602  m.),  elevation  7044  feet. 
The  lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  three  miles  by  half 
a  mile,  lies  to  the  west  of  the  station. 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


31 


Loiik  Out  (606  Ml.),  flevation  7169  feet.  Elk,  deer,  and 
antelope  abound  on  either  side;  and  the  rolling  prairies 
present  some  beautiful  landscapes. 

Miser  (614  m.),  elevation  6810  feet.  Sage-brush  is 
very  plentiful  in  this  vicinity. 

Itock  Creek  (623  m.),  elevation  6690  feet.  Between 
this  and  the  next  station  the  cnuntry  is  broken  and 
rugged,  and  the  railroad  works  ai'e  of  a  very  difficult 
character. 

Como  (638  ra.),  elevation  7680  feet.  The  lake,  of  which 
"e  have  already  spoken,  lies  to  the  right  of  the  road. 
Its  surface  is  covered  with  ducks,  and  its  deiiths  teem 
with  fish. 

Crossing  Medicine  Bow  River,  we  reach 

Medicine  Bow  Station  (645  m.),  elevation  6550  feet; 
traverse  a  smooth  and  pleasant  plain  for  about  five 
miles;  and  then,  through  a  rough  country,  make  our 
way  to 

Carbon.  (656  ra.),  elevation  6750  feet.  Two  fine  beds 
of  coal  have  been  fnund  here,  yielding  about  two  hundred 
tons  daily.  In  the  pits  three  hundred  men  are  era- 
ployed. 

Tiirough  a  si.\-mile  series  of  deep  cuttings  we  reach 
(82) 


Simpson  (662  m.),  elevation  6898  feet. 

Percy  (669  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  7950  feet ;  so  named 
from  a  Colonel  Percy,  who  was  killed  here  by  a  party  of 
Indians  while  making  a  survey  of  the  road.  The  Elk 
Mountain,  which  at  its  base  measures  twenty  miles 
in  circumference,  is  covered  with  snow  for  a  great  pur- 
tion  of  the  year,  and  forms  a  notable  landmark  from  this 
])oint. 

Dana  (675  m.).  Here  we  enter  upon  a  very  unattrac- 
tive alkali  country. 

St.  Mary's  (680  m.).  Soon  after  leaving  the  station 
we  plunge  into  a  formidable  gorge,  which  throws  out 
projecting  rocks  on  either  side,  as  if  they  sought  to  ob- 
struct the  passage. 

Walcott's  (688  ra.),  is  also  situated  in  the  ravine,  anil 
the  scenery  in  all  directions  is  of  a  singularly  bold  and 
majestic  character. 

Fort  Fred.  Steele  (696  m.),  elevation  6840  feet.  The 
fort,  close  by  the  station,  was  established  June  30,  1868, 
and  is  now  garrisontd  by  three  companies  of  Uncle  Sam's 
Regulars. 

Grenville  (704  m.). 

Rawlins  Springs  (709  m  ),  elevation  G732  feet,  whtre 


32 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


we  pause  thirty  minutes  for  refreshment.  The  surround- 
ing country  presents  no  features  of  interest,  and  the  so- 
called  springs  are  alkali  pools  of  a  very  disagreeable  taste, 
and  scarcely  less  disagreeable  aspect. 

Separation  Station  (723  m.),  elevation  6900  feet. 

The  gradient  is  now  a  gentle  ascent ;  and  we  climb 
up,  as  through  a  channel  purposedly  made  by  Nature,  to 
the  summit  of  the  ridge  of  the  Kocky  Mountains. 

At  Creston  (737  m.),  we  are  not  less  than  7030  feet 
above  the  sea-level. 

Two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  this  point  west,  a  flag, 
planted  by  the  wife  of  Captain  Clayton,  near  the  track, 
marks  the  summit  as  7100  feet  in  elevation.  This  point 
is  about  185  miles  from  Sherman,  737  miles  from  Omaha, 
and  1039  miles  from  Sacramento. 

In  a  scene  of  such  absolute  wiklness,  as  others  besides 
ourselves  will  have  remarked,  this  little  flag-staff  may  be 
taken  as  marking  the  centre  of  the  grandest  range  of  moun- 
tains on  the  cnntinent.  The  wrecks  of  Titanic  fortresses 
Beem  to  lie  around  us,  and  to  remind  us  of  the  great 
struggle  which,  as  the  poets  tell  us,  took  place  of  yore 
between  the  gods  and  giants,  when  Ossa  was  jiiled  upon 
Pelion.    The  mountain  breeze  plays  freshly  on  our  cheeks, 


but  brings  with  it  no  evidence  of  life,  no  aroma  of  vegeta- 
tion. We  feel  and  know  that  the  same  sky  which  hangs 
so  warm  and  blue  over  the  radiant  valley  is  as  blue  when 
seeming  to  rest  upon  these  mountain-heights.  But  how 
changed  it  is  in  character !  The  blueness  i?  that  of  steel, 
cold  and  repellent — a  clear,  keen  blue,  which  no  genial 
breeze  ever  seems  to  soften. 

If  a  spring  should  arise  from  this  sage-brush-covered 
knoll,  its  waters  would  divide  and  separate,  and  eventu- 
ally, in  two  diflerent  streams,  flow  into  the  oceans  which 
wash  the  opposite  side  of  the  continent. 

We  resume  our  seats  in  the  cars  and  pass  on,  the  track 
seeming  to  disappear  but  a  short  distance  in  our  front. 
The  view  from  the  rear  of  the  car  is  the  same.  It  seems 
as  if  the  track  were  warped  up  and  doubled  out  of  sight. 
The  curvatures  of  this  backbone,  it  is  rightly  said,  give 
the  track  a  similar  appearance  to  that  witnessed  at  Sher- 
man. Although  Sherman  has  a  loftier  elevation,  this  is 
the  continental  dividing-point,  or  watershed  ;  but  the  low 
broad  pass  brings  us  1212  feet  below  that  place.  To  the 
north  the  rugged  Seminole  Mountains  rear  their  crests  ; 
and,  more  to  the  westward,  and  at  a  greater  distance,  you 
may  trace  the  gray  lines,  broken  and  capricious,  of  the 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


J3 


Sweetwater  range.  Still  further  to  tlie  west  and  north, 
the  Wind  River  Mountains  close  the  perspective  with 
their  white-robed  summit.  Away  to  the  south  you  may 
trace  the  hills  forming  the  southern  boundary  of  the  pass, 
close  by  the  point  where  the  Bridger  Pass  Station  is 
situated  on  the  old  overland  road.  The  Uintah  Moun- 
tains serve  to  fill  up  the  picture. 


IV.— THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  TO  OGDEN. 

Wash-a-Kie  (752  m.),  elevation  6697  feet. 

Red  Desert  (761  m.),  elevation  6710  feet.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  so  called  from  the  colour  of  its 
soil,  a  deep  red,  due  to  the  presence  of  a  sesquioxide  of 
iron. 

TaUe  Rock  (775  m.),  elevation  6890  feet ;  the  station 
so  named  from  a  peculiar  flat-topped  bluff,  about  500  feet 
in  height. 

Bitter  Creek  Station  (785  m.),  elevation   6685   feet. 
Hence  we  descend  the  celebrated  Bitter  Creek  Valley  for 
sixty  miles  to  Green  River.     Coal  and  oil  are  among  the 
treasures  of  this  valley.     Coal,  too,  is  found  at 
(82) 


Black  Buttes  (794  m. ),  elevation  6600  feet ;  and  at 

IMlville  (798  m.). 

Point  of  Rocks  {^Qo  m.),  elevation  6490  feet.  Here, 
too,  a  vein  of  coal  has  been  struck,  but  the  quality  is  not 
very  good.  From  this  station  regular  stages  run,  during 
the  summer,  to  the  Sweetwater  Mines,  lying  on  the 
Sweetwater  River.     The  lodes  are  rich  in  gold. 

Salt  Wells  Station  (817  m.),  elevation  6360  feet. 

Van  Dykes  (828  m. ),  where  more  coal  is  found. 

pMck  Springs  (831  m. ),  elevation  6280  feet.  Through 
a  romantic  gorge  we  sweep  rapidly  downward  to 

Green  River  Station  (845  m.),  elevation  6140  feet, 
cross  Green  River,  and  reach 

Bryan  (858  m.),  elevation  6340  feet,  where  another 
thirty  minutes  are  allowed  for  the  refreshment  of  the 
inner  man.  The  Railroad  Company  have  some  work- 
shops here. 

We  now  ascend  the  Black  Fork,  crossing  it  twice,  and 
run  through  a  country  of  no  particular  interest,  to 

Granger  s  Station  (876  m.),  in  the  territory  of  Utah. 

Church  Buttes  (887  m.),  elevation  6317  feet.  Moss 
agates  are  found  here,  among  the  sandy  bluffs,  in  great 
abundance.     These  bluffs  assume  so  ecclesiastical  a  cha- 


34 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


racter,  with  their  spire,  and  domes,  and  pinDacles,  as  to 
have  suggested  the  significant  name  of  the  station. 

Carters  Station  (904  m.),  elevation  6550  feet.  Ten 
miles  distant  lies  Fort  Bridger,  established  in  1858  by 
General  A.  S.  Johnson,  and  named  after  James  Bridger, 
"the  renowned  hunter,  trapper,  and  guide."  It  is  situ- 
ated 159  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City,  and  garrisoned  by 
three  companies  of  infantry  and  one  of  cavalry. 

Bridger  Station  (913  m.),  elevation  6780  feet. 

Piedmont  Station  (9-28  m.),  elevation  7123  feet. 

Aspen  (937  m.),  elevation  7540  feet,  being  the  second 
highest  point  on  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  It  is  named 
after  a  lofty  mountain  to  the  north,  called  "Quaking 
Asp." 

Crossing  Yellow  Creek,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Bear 
River,  we  reach 

Evanston  (955  ra.),  elevation  6835  feet.  In  the  vici- 
nity are  some  oil  wells  and  sulphur  springs;  and  at 
the  head  of  Echo  Canyon  are  some  very  valuable  coal 
mines. 

Alma  (957  m.)  elevation  6850  feet. 

Wahsatch  (966  m.),  elevation  6879  feet.  Here  the 
train  stops  thirty  minutes,  and  the  travellers  obtain 
(82) 


what  refreshments  they  can  at  the  "  Trout  House."  It 
is  expected  that  the  town  will  shortly  be  removed  to 
Evanston.  Truth  to  tell,  it  bears  a  very  malodorous 
reputation.  A  recent  traveller  was  told  that  "out  of 
twenty-four  graves  here,  only  one  held  the  remains  of  a 
person  who  had  died  a  natural  death,  and  that  was  a 
woman  of  notoriously  bad  character  who  had  poisoned 
herself ! " 

In  some  parts  of  the  Bear  River  Valley  we  may  note, 
as  a  fact,  that  the  grasshoppers  are  so  numerous  it  is  im- 
possible to  place  the  point  of  a  pin  on  the  ground  without 
touching  them  ! 

"  An  eastward-bound  train,"  says  a  writer  in  the  New  Jersey 
Journal,  "which  has  just  come  in  to  'Wahsatcli,  is  provided 
with  evergreen  brooms,  covering  the  cow-catcher  and  brushing 
tlie  track,  to  sweep  off  tlie  grasshoppers.  The  engineer  of  our 
train  informs  me  that  at  times  they  are  so  numerous  on  the 
track  as  to  be  crushed  to  death  by  thousands:  hence  they 
make  the  driving-wlieels  and  track  so  greasy  that  trains  are 
often  two  or  three  hours  behind  their  time." 

We  now  pass  through  a  tunnel  770  feet  long,  but  not 
the  longest  on  the  line.  What  a  curious  sensation  tra- 
velling in  a  tunnel  gives  you  !    Whirling  onward  through 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


35 


the  grim  darkness,  your  ears  filled  with  the  rush,  the 

"  Didn't  know  Flynn  ! 

clatter,  and  the  reverberation,  you  begin  to  think  your- 

AVell, that  is  queer ; 

self  handed  over  to  the  powers  of  the  under-world  !     But 
with  the  passenger  the  sole  evil  of  the  tunnel,  as  a  rule, 
is  its  passing  eifect  on  the  imagination.     To  the  railroad 

AVhy,  it's  a  sin 

To  think  of  Tom  Flynn, 
Tom  with  his  cheer, 
Tom  witliout  fear — 

labourer  it  is  a  very  genuine  and  positiveevil,  since  its 

Stranger,  look  yar ! 

excavation  is  always  a  work  of  danger,  and  it  is  seldom 

**  Tliar  in  the  drift 

completed  without  loss  of  life.     The  railroad  is  not  much 

Back  to  the  wall, 

alluded  to  in  modern  poetry  ;  but,  at  least,  this  portion 

He  held  the  timbers 

of  it  has  proved  suggestive  to  the  fancy  of  our  San  Fran- 

Eeady to  fall ; 

cisco  poet,  Bret  Harte;  and  his  pathetic  ballad  there- 
upon may  be  perused  by  the  reader  on  his  again  emerging 
from  the  darkness,— 

There  in  the  darkness 
I  heard  him  call : 

'  Run  for  your  life,  Jake  ! 

Run  for  yoiu-  wife's  sake  ! 

"  Didn't  know  Flynn — ■ 

Don't  wait  for  me  !' 

Flynn  of  Virginia — 
Long  as  he's  been  yar? 
Look'ee  here,  stranger, 

•                       "  And  that  was  all 

Heard  in  the  din. 
Heard  of  Tom  Flynn— 

AVhar  hev  you  been  ? 

Flynn  of  Virginia. 

"  Here  in  this  tunnel 

"  That's  all  about 

He  was  my  pardner, 

Flynn  of  Virginia ! 

That  same  Tom  Flynn — 

That  lets  me  out. 

Working  together. 

Here  in  the  damp, 

In  wind  and  weather, 

Out  of  the  sun  — 

Day  out  and  in. 

That  'ar  darned  lamp 

(82) 


36 


THE  UNIOX  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Makes  my  eves  run. 
AVell,  there — I'm  done  ! 

"  But,  sir,  ■when  you'U 
Hear  the  next  fool 

Asking  of  Flynn — 
Flynn  of  Virginia — 

Just  you  chip  in. 

Say  you  knew  Flynn^ 
Say  that  you've  been  yar." 

Flvnn  is  just  the  type  of  a  large  number  of  our  railway 
workmen.  Whether  Bret  Harte  has  founded  his  ballad 
on  any  real  incident  we  cannot  say.  All  we  know  is, 
that  after  reading  it  one  feels  a  strange  sensation  of  un- 
accustomed tears. 

Now  we  enter  Echo  Canyon,  of  which,  in  the  first 
place,  we  shall  attempt  a  general  sketch. 

Echo  Canyon  (or  Cauon)  is  one  of  the  sublimest,  and 
yet,  too,  one  of  the  fairest  scenes  which  even  the  New 
World  can  boast  of.  Picture  to  yourself,  0  reader,  a 
deep,  rocky,  and  rugged  ravine  some  seven  miles  in  length, 
and,  at  its  head,  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  width.  On  the  right  hand  it  is  flanked  by  bold,  pre- 
cipitous, and  buttressed  cliffs  from  300  to  800  feet  high, 
(82) 


denuded  and  water- worn  by  the  storms  which  beat  against 
them  during  the  southerly  gales.  Their  strata  lie  inclined 
at  an  angle  of  45°  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  The  opposite  side, 
sheltered  from  furious  winds  and  driving  tempests  of  rain, 
is  formed  by  a  succession  of  swelling  verdurous  hills  or 
sloping  masses  of  rock,  profusely  clothed  with  mossy 
herbage.  In  the  hollow  between  them  rolls  a  bright 
transparent  stream,  which,  incessantly  at  work,  has  ex- 
cavated for  its  waters  a  channel  some  twenty  feet  below 
the  surface.  At  certain  parts  a  rocky  ledge  or  a  pile  of 
boulders  vexes  it  into  madness,  until,  gathering  itself  up 
like  an  athlete,  it  clears  the  obstacle  with  one  swift  and 
sudden  bound.  About  half-way  down,  the  ravine  nar- 
rows to  a  mere  defile,  where  the  stream  grows  wilder, 
and  the  banks  are  steeper,  and  the  vegetation  flourishes 
more  thickly.  The  lofty  cliffs  on  the  right  are  here 
broken  up  into  a  variety  of  fantastic  outlines:  pyra- 
mids and  pinnacles,  spires  and  towers,  battlemented  for- 
tresses and  ruined  cathedrals — the  whole  resembling  a 
magician's  vision  embodied  in  stone,  which  might  furnish 
the  imagination  of  poet  or  artist  with  inexhaustible 
material. 

In  truth  this  canyon  is,  what  Fitz  Hugh  Ludlow  calls 


THE  UNION  TACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


37 


it,  one  of  the  most  maguificent  avenues  by  which  Nature 
has  ever  supplemented  human  skill,  or  challenged  it  tOk 
a  hopeless  contest.  Notwithstanding  all  our  engineering 
appliances  and  artificial  forces,  to  wring  from  Nature 
such  a  corridor,  or  "right  of  way,"  between  two  tracts 
divided  in  their  physical  geography  by  a  lofty  barrier  one 
hundred  miles  in  thickness,  would  have  cost  us  at  least 
a  hundred  years  of  the  most  enlightened  skill  and  the 
most  arduous  labour.  Nature,  therefore,  as  if  she  felt 
the  necessity  of  providing  for  those  social  and  com- 
mercial currents  which  are  ever  longing  to  mingle  over 
the  whole  world,  throws  open  to  Man  the  pass  of  the 
Wahsatch,  as  free  as  air. 

Obviously  it  must  have  received  its  name  from  an  echo ; 
though  neither  by  experiment  nor  inquiry  can  the  travel- 
ler discover  any  one  suiSciently  remarkable  to  have  be- 
stowed its  name  on  so  grand  a  task  of  Nature. 

Castle  Rock  (975  m.),  a  little  station  at  an  elevation  of 
6290  feet,  in  the  vicinity  of  a  long  line  of  red  sandstone 
cliffs,  which  wear  a  curiously  castellated  appearance. 
Seven  miles  further  down  is  the  Hanging  Rock ;  and  six 
miles  beyond,  the  massive  boulders  and  huge  rocks  col- 
lected on  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  to  be  flung  down  upon 
(82) 


THE   PULPIT   ROCK. 

the  United  States  forces  under  General  Johnson,  sent 
against  the  Mormons  in  1857. 

During  the  descent  of  the  valley  the  railroad  crosses 
the  Echo  Creek  thirty-one  times  in  26  miles. 

Passing  the  ^Yitches  Cave  and  Pulpit  Rock,  we  reach 


C|r 


38 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Echo  City  (991  m.),  at  an  elevation  of  5540  feet.  1% 
has  now  a  population  of  about  700  inhabitants,  but  as 
both  iron  and  coal  have  been  found  in  the  vicinity,  we 
can  hardly  doubt  that  it  has  "a  good  time  coming." 

Eight  miles  below  Echo  City  the  train  enters  Wehtr 
Canyon,  which  almost  surpasses  the  Echo  in  sublimity 
of  character.  In  its  depths  the  Weber  River  rushes  im- 
petuously forward,  or  collects,  when  its  fury  is  spent, 
into  dark  silent  pools,  which  suggest  an  idea  of  indefin- 
able and  mysterious  depth. 

Where  the  pass  narrows  we  come  upon  the  One  Thou- 
sand Mile  Tree,  a  pine  that  marks  the  exact  distance 
from  Omaha,  and  for  centuries  has  marked  it,  before 
Watt  had  perfected  the  steam-engine  or  George  Stephen- 
son the  locomotive.  Not  far  from  this  curious  land- 
mark is  the  Devil's  Slide,  a  remarkable  disposition  of 
high  narrow  slabs  of  granite,  planted  up  the  mountain 
side,  and  nearly  to  its  summit,  at  a  nearly  uniform  dis- 
tance of  100  feet.  Another  conspicuous  landmark  is 
the  celebrated  Witches'  Rock.  Next  we  shoot  through 
a  tunnel  550  feet  long,  cross,  recross,  and  again  cross 
and  recross  the  river,  until,  where  the  vaUey  widens,  we 
come  upon 
(82) 


THE   witches'  rock,   IN  THE  WEBER  CANYON. 

Weber  Station  (1007  m.),  in  the  vicinity  of  Morgan 
City,  a  Mormon  settlement;  and  next,  after  a  rapid 
descent,  arrive  at 

Devil's  Gate  Station  (1019  ni.),  on  the  threshold  of  a 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


39 


majestic  but  gloomy  and  almost  weird  landscape.  We 
sweep  onward  through  the  very  heart  of  frowning  rocks 
and  terrible  precipices,  until  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  is 
reached,  and  the  traveller  catches  his  first  delightful 
glimpse  of  the  broad  green  plains  immediately  before 
him,  and  of  the  (ireat  Salt  Lake  beyond. 

Uintah  Station  (1024  m.)  elevation  4560  feet,  or  2319 
feet  lower  than  Wahsatch,  58  miles  to  the  eastward. 
From  Sacramento,  752  miles. 

Ogden  Station  (10.32  m.).  We  are  here  at  an  elevation 
of  4340  feet,  and  1032  miles  distant  from  Omaha,  and 
742  from  Sacramento. 

The  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Railroads  have  a  union 
dep6t  at  this  station,  with  warehouses,  round-houses, 
machine  and  repair  houses.  An  excellent  restaurant  is 
also  provided  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers. 

Ogden  City  lies  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  station.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Ogden  Can- 
yon, one  of  the  valleys  which  intersect  the  Wahsatch 
range,  and  between  the  Ogden  and  Weber  rivers.  Hotel, 
the  O'jden  House.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  Weber  County, 
and  as  the  terminus  of  both  the  Union  and  Central  Paci- 
fic Railroads,  as  well  as  of  the  Utah  Central,  is  a  place 
(82) 


of  growing  trade.  The  population,  chiefly  Mormon,  is 
about  6000. 

The  scenery  immediately  around  it  is  not  very  striking, 
but  still  there  is  enough  to  amuse  and  interest  the  traveller 
for  a  day  or  so,  if  his  pedestrian  powers  are  tolerable,  and 
he  does  not  fear  to  climb  the  abrupt  hills  and  descend 
into  the  deep  verdurous  valleys. 

Ogden  Canyon  is  fully  five  miles  in  length,  and  from 
its  mouth  to  its  source,  from  plain  to  mountain-top,  it 
presents  a  succession  of  those  naturally  artistic  pictures, 
beautiful  in  outline,  grouping,  and  colour,  which  are  the 
delight  of  the  sketcher.  About  six  miles  from  the  town, 
and  high  up  among  the  mountain  solitudes,  lies  an  ex- 
quisite Arcadian  glen,  or  "  bowery  hollow,"  called  the 
Basin,  watered  by  sparkling  mountain  creeks,  and  rich 
in  a  soft  carpet  of  luxuriant  herbage. 

We  have  now  completed  the  first  portion  of  our  Trans- 
Continental  Tour.  The  second  portion  will  be  described 
in  our  "  Pictorial  Guide-Book  to  the  Central  Paci- 
fic Railroad"  {from  Ogden  to  San  Francisco).  But 
to  render  the  present  volume  more  satisfactory,  we  shall 
append  a  brief  chapter  on  the  metropolis  of  Mormondom, 


40 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


referring  the  reader  for  fuller  particulars  to  our  "  Pic- 
torial GuiDE-BooK  TO  Salt  Lake  City." 


v.— A  VISIT  TO  SALT  LAKE  CITY, 
"the  city  of  the  saints." 

Ogden  is  the  terminus  of  the  Utah  Central  Raih-oad, 
a  line,  36  miles  in  length,  owned  and  administered  by  the 
citizens  of  Utah  Territory.  It  was  begun  on  the  17th  of 
May,  1867,  the  ceremony  of-  breaking  ground  being 
solemnized  by  the  presence  of  the  head  of  the  Mormon 
Church  and  all  its  principal  dignitaries. 

Utah  Territory,  we  may  premise,  occupies  an  area  of 
about  65,000  square  miles,  the  greater  portion  of  which  is 
savage,  rough,  and  mountainous.  Not  more  than  135,000 
acres  are  under  cultivation.  But  tlie  underground  wealth 
of  the  Territory  will  probably  be  found  of  great  extent — 
rich  veins  of  gold,  silver,  iron,  and  other  metals  having 
been  discovered. 

Utah  was  first  settled  in  1847,  when,  on  the  24th  of 
July,  the  vanguard  of  the  Mormon  emigration,  numbering 
(82) 


143  men,  entered  Salt  Lake  Valley;  five  days  later  150 
more  men  arrived;  and  on  the  31st  of  July  Great  Salt 
Lake  City  was  laid  out.  On  the  9th  of  March,  1849, 
the  Territory,  then  known  as  the  State  of  Deseret,  passed 
formally  under  the  governorship  of  Brigham  Young. 
In  1850  the  United  States,  to  whom  the  country  had  been 
surrendered  by  the  Mormons,  placed  it  under  their  own 
legal  administration,  and  an  Act  of  Congress  was  passed 
to  provide  it  with  a  Territorial  government.  Brigham 
Young  was  continued  as  governor  of  the  Territory,  then 
first  known  as  Utah,  until  1858,  when  a  Federal  governor 
was  appointed. 

The  population  is  now  about  130,000,  of  whom  about 
60,000  may  be  Mormons,  35,000  Indians,  and  the  re- 
mainder, settlers  of  all  creeds  and  nations. 

Twenty-four  years  ago  Utah  was  a  wilderness;  to-day 
it  is  a  land  of  thrift,  industry,  and  wealth,  its  soil  teem- 
ing with  riches,  its  large  population  enjoying  in  peace  the 
products  of  their  labour.  Prosperous  towns  and  settle- 
ments (with  220  schools)  extend  a  distance  of  about  500 
miles — from  Idaho  Territory  on  the  north,  to  Arizona 
Territory  on  the  south. 

For  about  twelve  miles,  the  Utah  Central  Railroad 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


41 


traverses  what  is  known  as  the  "  Sand  Kidge;  "  a  long 
sandy  swell,  where  sage-brush,  rabbit-brush,  sunflowers, 
and  similar  vegetation,  with  occasional  patches  of  succu- 
lent grass,  reigu  undisturbed  by  plough  or  water-ditch, 
much  of  it  lying  at  too  great  an  elevation  for  the  use  of 
the  ordinary  means  of  irrigation. 

Along  this  portion  of  the  line  we  obtain  a  noble  view 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  with  Antelope,  Fremont,  Stans- 
bury,  Carrington,  Dolphin,  and  Hat  Islands;  a  span  of 
horizon  exceeding  a  hundred  miles  in  extent,  from  north 
to  south,  being  opened  up  to  the  gaze  of  traveller  or 
tourist,  with  scenery  embracing  the  principal  elements  of 
loveliness  and  sublimity  ;  a  loveliness  resembling,  though 
inferior  to,  that  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  with  a  magnificence 
not  unworthy  of  the  Swiss  Alps. 

Sunset  upon  the  lake  is,  during  the  summer  months, 
one  of  the  most  brilliant  spectacles  the  eye  could  ever 
hope  to  see,  so  gorgeously  rich  is  the  colouring,  when 
peak  and  canyon  are  bathed  in  the  purple  and  golden 
twilight  of  departing  day. 

The  line  for  twenty-two  miles  from  South  Kaysville 
traverses  the  most  fertile  portion  of  the  valley,  the  gener- 
ous soil  yielding  profuse  harvests  of  every  product  grown 


in  this  latitude.  While  those  of  cereals  and  vegetables 
are  extraordinarily  large,  the  fruit,  including  apples, 
peaches,  plums,  apricots,  and  grapes,  with  melons, 
squashes,  and  pumpkins,  is  particularly  fine. 

The  lake,  dimpled  with  the  shadows  of  its  rocky 
islands,  or  reflecting  the  glory  of  a  sunlit  and  cloudless 
sky,  stretches  far  away  to  the  right — 126  miles  long,  by 
45  miles  wide.  Dreamy-looking  valleys,  buried  in  a  rosy 
mist,  and  crowned  by  towering  ranges  of  mountains — 
whose  peaks,  snow-capped  even  in  the  midsummer,  soar 
above  the  clouds — are  visible  around  us ;  while,  on  the 
left,  lie  well-cultivated  arable  lands,  with  orchards  and 
gardens  encircling  the  settlements  of  Kaysville,  Farming- 
ton,  Centreville,  and  Bountiful,*  and  running  along  the 
base  of  the  Wahsatch  range. 

Within  about  five  miles  of  the  City  of  the  Saints,  the 
railroad  reaches  the  Hot  Spring  Lake,  fed  by  the  cele- 
brated springs.  It  forms  a  beautiful  little  sheet  of 
water,  nearly  three  miles  long,  and  upwards  of  a  mile 
broad,  whose  calm  surface  is  scarcely  rippled  by  the 
flocks  of  wild  ducks  and  geese  floating  so  lazily  upon  it. 

*  The  nearest  station  (2  m. )  to  the  shore  of  the  lake. 


42 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


A  small  inlet  or  creek  of  this  lake  is  crossed  by  the  rail- 
road ;  and  the  cars,  swiftly  flying  over  the  pasture-land 
north  of  the  city,  and  passing  the  Warm  Spring  Baths, 
soon  arrive  at  the  Salt  Lake  City  terminus. 

While  varying  greatly  in  the  colouring  of  their  descrip- 
tions, almost  all  travellers  have  recognized  the  skill  with 
which  the  Mormon  leaders  selected  the  site,  and  have 
gradually  developed  the  plan  of  their  city.  But  at  the 
felicity  of  the  choice  we  need  not  w-onder,  since,  accord- 
ing to  President  Brigham  Young,  it  was  indicated  to  him 
in  a  vision  by  an  angel,  who,  standing  on  a  conical  hill, 
pointed  out  the  locality  where  the  New  Temple  should  be 
built.  Consequently,  when  the  Mormon  patriarch  first 
entered  the  Salt  Lake  Basin,  he  looked  for  the  angel- 
haunted  cone,  and  discovering  a  fresh  clear  stream  rip- 
pling at  its  base,  he  immediately  named  it  City  Creek. 
Some  say  the  angel  was  the  spirit  of  his  predecessor, 
Joseph  Smith,  the  apostle  of  Mormonism  ;  others,  that 
as  early  as  1842  the  latter  was  favoured  with  dreams  of 
these  valleys  and  mountains,  these  lakes  and  rivers,  and 
revealed  them  to  his  favourite  disciples.  At  all  events,  on 
the  enforced  exodus  of  the  Saints  from  Nauvoo,  they  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  descended  into  this  sheltered 
(82) 


basin,  to  found  their  new  city  in  a  scene  of  picturesque 
and  impressive  beauty. 

Salt  Lake  City  is  situated  in  an  angle  of  the  Wahsatch 
Mountains,  and  stretches  up  close  to  the  foot  of  the  north- 
ern hills ;  while,  on  the  east,  it  comes  within  about  three 
miles  of  the  bold  and  rugged  range.  The  highest  summits 
of  the  Wahsatch  reach  an  elevation  of  more  than  7000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  valley,  and  between  11,000  and 
12,000  above  the  ocean-level. 

The  principal  business  thoroughfare  in  the  city  is  East 
Temple  Street.  Like  all  the  rest,  it  measures  132  feet 
in  width,  with  brooks  running  down  either  side,  and 
trees  casting  their  pleasant  shadow  over  the  pathways. 
In  shape  the  city  resembles  an  L,  the  lai-ger  portion  of 
the  letter  stretching  east  and  west,  and  the  shorter  north 
and  south.  Its  appearance  is  unique,  and  peculiar  to  it- 
self The  numerous  orchards  met  with  in  every  quarter, 
and  the  thriving  trees  which  border  every  thoroughfare, 
communicate  to  it  the  appearance  of  a  mass  of  villas, 
cottages,  and  residences  of  every  imaginable  (and  >inim- 
aginable)  style  of  architecture,  buried  in  a  mass  of  luxur- 
iant foliage. 

Laid  out  in  square  blocks  of  ten  acres  each,  the  wide 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


43 


streets  run  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  following  the 
cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  Thus  the  city  covers  a 
space  of  about  nine  square  miles,  and  contains  nearly 
25,000  inhabitants.  There  are  several  hotels;  but  the 
best  are  the  "Salt  Lake"  House,  the  "Townsend" 
House,  and  the  "  Kevere  "  House. 

The  plan  of  Salt  Lake  City,  as  every  traveller  may 
judge  for  himself,  resembles  that  of  all  our  other  cities. 
It  has  a  main  street,  from  which  others  run  parallel,  and 
from  which  side  streets  diverge  at  right  angles.  The 
majority  of  shops  and  stores  are  in  East  Temple  Street. 
Observe,  0  tourist,  on  some  of  the  stores,  a  sign-board 
with  the  following  inscriptions :  at  the  top,  "  Holi- 
ness to  the  Lord  ;"  underneath,  the  All-Seeing  Eye,  and 
the  announcement,  "  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  In- 
stitution." It  is  132  feet  in  width,  with  a  runlet  of 
water  rippling  down  either  side,  keeping  the  shade 
trees  in  lovely  green  foliage  during  the  scorching  summer 
months. 

Among  the  public  buildings  the  first  to  attract  the 
attention  of  travellers  is  the  Temple,  which  forms  the 
centre,  as  it  were,  of  the  hopes  of  the  many  thousand 

(82) 


devotees  who  cling  to  the  JMormon  faith  throughout  the 
world. 

It  is  intended  to  be  devoted  to  such  preliminary  rites 
and  ceremonies  as  baptisms,  washings,  anointings,  and 
the  like.  Its  dimensions,  when  completed,  will  be,  186i 
feet  from  east  to  west,  including  towers,  and  99  feet  from 
north  to  south.  The  foundation  is  laid  16  feet  fiom  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  and  the  walls  resting  upon  them  are 
8  feet  thick.  The  towers  will  stand  at  each  end  of  the 
building, — the  centre  ones,  east  and  west,  rising  higher 
than  the  others,  and  to  an  altitude  of  225  feet;  while  in 
each  a  circular  stairway  will  whirl  round  a  column  of  4 
feet  in  diameter,  with  landing-places  at  various  sections 
of  the  building,  which  afford  the  most  superb  and  ex- 
tensive views  of  the  city  and  the  lake,  the  valley  and  the 
mountains. 

Nor  must  we  foi'get  the  Tabernacle,  which  is  erected 
inside  the  Temple  block  of  buildings.  The  south  wall  of 
this  two-acre  enclosure  is  perfectly  embowered  in  foliage. 
From  all  parts  of  the  city  the  building  itself  is  recognized 
by  its  egg-shaped,  dome-like  roof.  It  is  said  to  be  the 
largest  hall  in  the  world  of  a  single  span  roof,  unsup- 
ported by  pillar  or  column,  and  used  for  purposes  of 


44 


THE  UNIOX  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


public  meetings.  It  mea- 
sures 250  feet  inside,  from 
east  to  west,  and  150  feet 
from  north  to  south.  Forty- 
sis  parallelogram  pillars  of 
red  sandstone,  9  feet  deep 
by  3  feet  wide,  form  the  base 
for  the  roof,  which  is  a 
strong  lattice-work  of  tim- 
ber, firmly  bolted  together, 
and  self-supporting.  The 
west  end  is  filled  with  a 
rostrum  or  "  stand,"  an  ele- 
vated platform,  with  three 
seats  in  the  centre,  elevated 
slightly  one  above  the  other, 
for  the  Church  dignitaries. 

The  grand  organ  in  the 
Tabernacle  is  the  third  larg- 
est in  the  Union.  It  con- 
tains about  two  thousand 
pipes. 

The  Theatre  is  built  in  a 
(82) 


^^- 


semi-Doric  style,  and  is  ele- 
gantly fitted  up  in  the  in- 
terior. It  measures  172  feet 
liy  SO,  and  has  a  stage  of  62 
feet  in  depth. 

The  City  Hall  is  a  hand- 
some red  sandstone  build- 
ing, surmounted  by  a  clock- 
tower. 

Then  there  are  also  the 
City  Prison,  the  Old  Taber- 
nacle, the  University  of  De- 
seret,  the  Council  House,  the 
Court  House,  and  the  Gene- 
val  Tithing  Store, — all  to  be 
visited  by  the  traveller ;  to 
say  nothing  of  the  Lion  and 
Beehive  Houses,  which  form 
the  residence  of  President 
Young,  and  are  surrounded 
by  beautiful  gardens.  They 
are  connected  with  the  Gene- 
ral Tithing  Store. 


THE  BLACK   KOCK. 


TIIK   UNION   TACIKIC   RAILROAD. 


45 


A    GROUP   OP   UTE  SQUAWS. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city  are  several  places 
of  interest.  To  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  or  "  Dead  Sea 
of  the  West,"  we  have  already  alluded,  and  its  huge 
"Black  Rock"  is  a  feature  of  great  interest;  nor  have 
we  forgotten  to  refer  to  the  Hot  Springs  and  ]Var7n 
Springs,  which  lie  about  two  miles  distant  from  each 
other,  and  are  much  commended  for  their  medicinal 
virtues. 

The  Canyons,  or  valleys,  in  the  Wahsatch  and  Oquirrh 
(82) 


^..  ■( 


SNAKE  INDIAN   AND   SQUAW. 

mountain  ranges,  are  all  deserving  of  exploration  on 
account  of  the  beauty  and  freshness  of  their  scenery ;  and 
in  the  clear  sweet  brooks  which  ripple  through  them,  the 
angler  will  find  satisfactory  employment  for  his  skill. 
The  artist,  too,  may  occasionally  come  across  a  group  of 
Ute  squaws,  who,  for  a  small  gift,  will  allow  themselves 
to  be  transferred  to  liis  sketch-book ;  or  he  may  prefer  a 


46 


THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


Snake  Indian  and  his  squaw;  and  both  the  Utes  and 
Snakes  are  still  numerous  in  Utah  Territory. 

A  visit  should  also  be  paid  to  Utah  Valley  and  Lake, 
the  latter  a  pleasant  sheet  of  water,  30  miles  long, 
by  15  miles  broad.     And  Jordan  River,  and  Ensign 


Peak,  are  both  to  be  included  among  the  natural 
features  of  this  extraordinary  region,  where  human  in- 
dustry, in  despite  of  seemingly  insurmountable  obstacles, 
has  converted  the  wilderness  into  luxuriant  garden- 
ground. 


Census  of  Utah. — It  is  stated  that  the  new  census  shows  a 
total  population  of  86,605  in  the  Territory  of  Utah,  and  many 
persons  will  be  surprised  to  learn  that  the  males  are  1277  more 
in  number  than  the  females.  It  must  be  remembered,  how- 
ever, that  in  newly-settled  territories  the  males,  in  ordinary 
cases,  much  more  largely  outnumber  the  females.  The  re- 
turns for  Salt  Lake  City  show  how  greatly  the  "  peculiar  in- 
stitution "  is  sustained  by  foreigners.    The  native  (American- 


born)  population  is  10,236,  and  the  females  are  7S  fewer  than 
the  males;  but  in  the  foreign-born  population — viz.,  7010 — 
the  females  are  CSC  more  in  number  than  the  males.  In  the 
native  population  of  Salt  Lake  City  there  are  50  females  to 
51  males;  in  the  foreign  populatior  there  are  38  females  to 
31  males.  If  we  exclude  children,  who  are  probably  in  nearlj' 
equal  proportions,  the  excess  of  women  over  men  in  the 
foreign  population  becomes  much  more  marked. 


m 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  AT  LOS  ANGELES 


—  2.3.r" 
33^  t5 


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